What do you use for a knife sharpener?

JohnnyMac · Post by **JohnnyMac** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 7:55 am

I've been getting my kitchen knives sharpened by a pro but am getting tired of the cycle between sharp and dull and the back and forth bullshit.

So, looking for recommendations on a sharpener for home, what do you fellas use??

Post by **mr x** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 9:11 am

I have an Apex unit. We were talking about the eBay knockoff in one of the other threads.

GAM · Post by **GAM** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 9:18 am

I have a Heenkel ceramic jobie for day to day use and a CRKT Slip Sharp. The Silp works but is a pain to use. I'd be in for a good sharpener.

Sandy

dexter · Post by **dexter** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 10:38 am

I get mine done professionally and just use my steel to keep them true, I cycle through about 6 chefs knives so they don't tend to get dull for about six months.

blacktip · Post by **blacktip** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 4:01 pm

I use a three wheel ceramic deal from Global. It works alright, but I know the edge could be better. My steel skills are a bit lacking.

There's a guy sharpening knives at the old market for a reasonable price, $1/inch, $6 minimum. Going to take one to him that was sharpened by a "professional" that left some extra material at the heel of the blade.

Post by **mr x** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 4:03 pm

I also have a couple King waterstones from Lee Valley Tools.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

GAM · Post by **GAM** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 4:30 pm

I don't like steels. the attack angle is a hard to feel thing.

Sandy

Jayme · Post by **Jayme** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:18 pm

I took a look at the Apex unit X mentioned and I think you can get a similar 'guide' from lee valley. I have one (my mom bought it for me but didn't realize it was meant to go with a stone... haha). I don't know if it's as good though... I was thinking of getting a stone from Lee Valley soon though. If you're just going to get 1 to start, what's the best starting point?

Post by **mr x** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:22 pm

I think you probably need 2, and IIRC they sell double sided stones. Something in the 800-1000 range, and something over 3000. Check out the King stone prices, and also, the rubber stone holder is pretty helpful.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 75&p=67177" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

blacktip · Post by **blacktip** » Mon Nov 25, 2013 4:25 pm

GAM wrote:I don't like steels. the attack angle is a hard to feel thing.

Sandy

It has taken me a lot longer than I would have thought to get comfortable with the steel. Also, *everyone* has different opinions on how to best use a steel. I've found using a fairly firm pressure and moving the knife away from me is what gives me the best results.

SealClubber · Post by **SealClubber** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 1:01 pm

I use japanese water stones free handed to sharpen my hunting knives. It took me maybe 6-8 rounds of sharpening before getting the hang of it. I still can't figure out the smoother stones. I have a 400 grit, 1000 and 4000. I can sharpen with the 400 but the 1000 and 4000 elude me still.

They're the nicer japanese stones (not king). They run 30-50 bucks. If you're interested I suggest getting a 400 and trying it out on a few old knives first. Thicker ones are easier to sharpen I found. Little easier to see where the edge is meeting the stone.

blacktip · Post by **blacktip** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 2:51 pm

A great trick for checking your contact is to line the edge you're sharpening with a Sharpie, so you get a good visual on where you're removing material.

Jayme · Post by **Jayme** » Fri Nov 29, 2013 2:04 pm

mr x wrote:I think you probably need 2, and IIRC they sell double sided stones. Something in the 800-1000 range, and something over 3000. Check out the King stone prices, and also, the rubber stone holder is pretty helpful.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 75&p=67177" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This seems like a good choice then... http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 77&p=33009

I can't seem to find the rubber stone holder though.

Post by **mr x** » Fri Nov 29, 2013 2:08 pm

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 67176&ap=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

SealClubber · Post by **SealClubber** » Fri Nov 29, 2013 2:16 pm

Keep in mind that if you choose the Lee Valley approach… 1000x/4000x is pretty fine. You will be sitting there all day if you have chips in edge of if you want to reprofile the bevel:

I would suggest the Naniwa chosera 400x. It's the highest quality japanese stone available that I know of and includes a nagura stone for creating slurry. http://www.chefknivestogo.com/ch400grstwib.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you want more information on how to use these and the quality etc, check out this guys tube channel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiTlF4QxhTs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

FYI a rubber mat is not always necessary. I just place mine on a wet t shirt and it works just fine.

Post by **mr x** » Fri Nov 29, 2013 2:21 pm

If you are rough with your gear, something under 800 would help for sure. I'd look at Paul's Finest or SliceandSear before ordering from the US. Also, for the coarse stones, I wouldn't go with the more expensive brands, save the money for the finishing stones.

Keep in mind that the next comment is just my opinion. If you need a coarse stone everytime you sharpen your knife, you are using the wrong tool for the job, or work in a meat processing plant.

Jayme · Post by **Jayme** » Tue Dec 03, 2013 10:21 pm

I'm very, very careful with my one nice knife so I'm not too worried about the coarse stone just yet. Thanks for the link to the holder. Not sure why that didn't come up when I searched...

James · Post by **James** » Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:35 am

This is a bit ghetto but if you don't have a stone sharpening set you can use the bottom of a ceramic plate in between PRO sharpenings...to keep the edge useable atleast!

Celiacbrew · Post by **Celiacbrew** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 10:24 pm

I have a lot of sharpening gear for my knives. I almost always go for my dual sided DMT diamond plate first. The fine side cuts faster than the coarse India stone I have. It is much finer than the coarse stone meaning I don't have to spend as much time on the higher grit stones either. I usually go to the extra fine on the other side for a couple of strokes before finishing on the 4000 iminishi stone I have. I have a strop and polishing compounds too but I don't notice a huge difference from that after the 4000 iminishi.

If someone were to start sharpening their knives on their own I would point them to the diamond plates because they are cheap and come with a stand. I got my dual sided one for 65 online. It would be adequate for most people, if you really want that polished edge then I would get a water stone with a grit size about 1/2 the micron size of the extra fine diamond plate. Lee valley has a chart in their catalogue. Doesn't have to be an expensive stone either. If you are a home cook and not sharpening tool on it, the cheap ones will last you a long time.

And don't bother with guides. They just seem to get in the way. Lock your wrist and really focus on keeping the same angle the whole time. The hardest part is learning to compensate for the tip. You will naturally thin it out and make it too sharp.

TimG · Post by **TimG** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:25 pm

mr x wrote:I have an Apex unit. We were talking about the eBay knockoff in one of the other threads.

Rob, you have any good Youtube video suggestions on how to use the ebay knockoff? I got it a 'long' time ago and haven't taken it out of the box. Thinking I should get my shit together.

Tim

Post by **mr x** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:38 pm

I've never used any youtube videos. I just read the instructions lol. There probably are reasonable one there though,

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