Is anyone familiar with this hydrometer?

[chiasson]

Got another question for ya'll.

So this is what I got for a final SG and having not done this for awhile I'm not sure what to make of it. Despite everything I've read and watching videos I find this particular hydrometer confusing to read. Am I okay to bottle?

[chalmers]

It looks like a gravity of 1.008-1.009, which is fairly low for an IPA, and is probably finished. Do you remember the starting gravity of the beer?
From your other thread, I think the airlock activity is pretty close to complete, which is another indicator that fermentation is complete.
I'd say you are cleared for takeoff on the bottling.

In all hydrometers, the numbers increase down the body of the hydrometer (ie, as more of it is exposed to the air above the liquid level). This is because the liquid is more dense, your specific gravity will increase, which (all other things held constant) means more dissolved sugars. The "10" mark below the "1.000" mark is shorthand for "1.010", which is where I got the estimate of 1.007-1.009 (can't quite tell from the picture). A decent hydrometer will have markings every 0.001 or 0.002 gravity points for higher accuracy. The level of the hydrometer should be measured at the bottom of the meniscus, which is the lowest level where the hydrometer sits in the liquid. Most of the time with wort/beer, means it has crept up the side of the meter a tiny bit, so it does take a keen eye to get it right (looking through rather than down onto it is best). Also remember to get rid of as many of the bubbles as possible.

[chiasson]

Great news! What was confusing me was thinking that it should finish within the green bar, around 1.004?

I was a dummy and didn't take a reading prior to fermentation but the nobel grape site says it should have been 1.060 for this kit.

My nervousness stems from having two batches not fully ferment for me years ago. Here's hoping that that's about to change.

Thanks for the response!

[chalmers]

No problem, happy to assuage some fears. That green bar is likely for wine, which will routinely finish close to 1.000, or even lower.

I edited my post above with some, hopefully, useful hydro-reading tips. And in re-checking the picture, I'd say the gravity is closer to 1.010, which is still absolutely fine for bottling. 1.015 or lower is probably safe (though this number swings wildly depending on what style and starting gravity you have).

Re: low final gravity: I don't think it's a case of leaving it too long, as the yeast would process the sugars eventually (and better they do that in primary or secondary, rather than bottles!). It might be a case of more highly fermentable sugars extracted than anticipated in the recipe. What was the temperature of your steeping? Without a starting gravity, it's tough to say how that will affect your alcohol (ie, did you start at 1.060, or was it lower). But you are correct that if you started at 1.060 and end at 1.010 instead of 1.015, you'll get a bit more booze out of it (about 0.5%).
Lower finishing gravity tends to give a thinner and drier mouthfeel, whereas higher finishing gravity would be thicker and sweeter. Again, those are generalizations, and neither is better or worse, it just depends on your taste.

[chiasson]

Yeah I really wish I took an OG. Oh well, live and learn.

I steeped at 155F.

Thanks again for all the help! I'm learning lots here.

[CorneliusAlphonse]

yeah the green range labelled "beer" (from 1.000 to 1.004 ish it looks) could only be meant for macro brewery type beers. craft beer styles would very rarely finish that low. (as with anything, there are exceptions)

[chalmers]

Yeah I really wish I took an OG. Oh well, live and learn.

I steeped at 155F.

Thanks again for all the help! I'm learning lots here.

That's what we're here for. Before you know, you'll be teaching us a thing or two!

[Jimmy]

Yeah I really wish I took an OG. Oh well, live and learn.

I steeped at 155F.

Thanks again for all the help! I'm learning lots here.

If it's a Festabrew kit I wouldn't worry too much about the OG; it should be right. If it's not a festabrew kit, then I'd definitely check the OG.

[spears104]

I remember being confused buy the colored areas on my first hydrometer when I first started brewing. Luckily I broke that one! The only beer I ever made that finished in the "beer" zone was a gluten free beer. Most beers I make finish 1.010 and above.

[Tony L]

I have one exactly like it. It has survived 25+ years of use. I once bought another one as I wasn't sure of the accuracy of
it, but it only lasted me 2 months before I dropped it and it broke. All the same it read the same as the new one and now,
every now and then I'll compare it to my refractometer readings and they are close enough for me not to worry about it.