A spot to talk general homebrew
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dean2k
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by dean2k » Fri Nov 30, 2012 2:35 pm
dean2k wrote:Wish me luck kids. I'm flying without a net today experimenting with my own recipe concoction: 3-hop APA using my newly converted cooler for a hybrid BIAB.
Cooler didn't leak, except heat. I was better with a pot and blanket in terms of mash temp. Like, wow. But I did break my first thermometer !!!

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Jimmy
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by Jimmy » Fri Nov 30, 2012 2:42 pm
dean2k wrote:dean2k wrote:Wish me luck kids. I'm flying without a net today experimenting with my own recipe concoction: 3-hop APA using my newly converted cooler for a hybrid BIAB.
Cooler didn't leak, except heat. I was better with a pot and blanket in terms of mash temp. Like, wow. But I did break my first thermometer !!!

Did you account for the heat that would be absorbed by the cooler? It can suck up quite a bit of heat for the first little bit. It's recommended to preheat your cooler before adding strike water, or making the strike water extra hot to account for the absorption. I heat my strike water 10* hotter than normal, add it to my cooler, then let it rest for about 10 minutes to equalize before adding my grain. What kind of head space did you have between the grain and the top of your cooler?
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dean2k
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by dean2k » Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:53 pm
Jimmy wrote: I heat my strike water 10* hotter than normal, add it to my cooler, then let it rest for about 10 minutes to equalize before adding my grain. What kind of head space did you have between the grain and the top of your cooler?
Good idea. I'll try that next time. And I also had *ample* head space since I'm going mash 1.5-2 gal. for 1 gallon batches. Was it heating that air space? The cooler was not warm to the touch at all, which had me wondering if the SS ball valve was the culprit since it was hot to the touch. I couldn't image that such a small surface area would have done it. Thanks for the heads up.
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Jimmy
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by Jimmy » Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:56 pm
dean2k wrote:Jimmy wrote: I heat my strike water 10* hotter than normal, add it to my cooler, then let it rest for about 10 minutes to equalize before adding my grain. What kind of head space did you have between the grain and the top of your cooler?
Good idea. I'll try that next time. And I also had *ample* head space since I'm going mash 1.5-2 gal. for 1 gallon batches. Was it heating that air space? The cooler was not warm to the touch at all, which had me wondering if the SS ball valve was the culprit since it was hot to the touch. I couldn't image that such a small surface area would have done it. Thanks for the heads up.
Head space and the ball valve will both contribute to heat loss. Some other users on here said they use a piece of tinfoil on top of their mash to prevent heat loss to the head space. You could also wrap the ball valve with insulation of some sort during the mash if you find it's still losing too much heat.
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sleepyjamie
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by sleepyjamie » Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:19 pm
ive used level-wall insulation wrapped in tin foil to reduce headspace and it works well.
also i typically wrap my mash tun in a blanket to keep any radiant heat from escaping.
you probably could get real fancy and wrap your cooler in reflectix if you were insane. im considering this.
On Tap:
Falconers Galaxy IPA
Simcoe SMaSH
Topaz SMaSH
Cranberry Rye Saison
Monde Souterrain (Dark Saison)
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dean2k
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by dean2k » Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:29 pm
Yikes. We'll see how this one ultimately turns out. Still learning and adapting my methods. Having to insulate a cooler to those extremes, seems ... er, extreme.
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jeffsmith
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by jeffsmith » Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:39 pm
dean2k wrote:Yikes. We'll see how this one ultimately turns out. Still learning and adapting my methods. Having to insulate a cooler to those extremes, seems ... er, extreme.
I'd say go tech—throw a piece of foil on top of the grain bed before you close the cooler up and cover it up with a blanket. That should be enough to hold you within a degree or so.
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sleepyjamie
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by sleepyjamie » Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:40 pm
dean2k wrote:Yikes. We'll see how this one ultimately turns out. Still learning and adapting my methods. Having to insulate a cooler to those extremes, seems ... er, extreme.
definitely. it really depends on your system and methods.
i want to start doing mashes during my work lunch and then do boil when i come home.
thus im likely going to need something a little more superior than your average cooler. i havent tested this yet but its in the works.
if you are doing 60 min mashes then u probably wont need to put much more work into your mash tun cooler.
On Tap:
Falconers Galaxy IPA
Simcoe SMaSH
Topaz SMaSH
Cranberry Rye Saison
Monde Souterrain (Dark Saison)
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LiverDance
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by LiverDance » Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:57 pm
sleepyjamie wrote:dean2k wrote:Yikes. We'll see how this one ultimately turns out. Still learning and adapting my methods. Having to insulate a cooler to those extremes, seems ... er, extreme.
definitely. it really depends on your system and methods.
i want to start doing mashes during my work lunch and then do boil when i come home.
thus im likely going to need something a little more superior than your average cooler. i havent tested this yet but its in the works.
if you are doing 60 min mashes then u probably wont need to put much more work into your mash tun cooler.
I do this, mash in at lunch and boil after supper. I lose about 10-15 degrees in a blue coleman cooler. I'm not worreid about converstion since most is done in 20 mins and then I account for that loss when calculating my sparge water temp.
Planning on brewing my single hop polaris pale ale this weekend and maybe another pale ale.
"Twenty years ago — a time, by the way, that hops such as Simcoe and Citra were already being developed, but weren’t about to find immediate popularity — there wasn’t a brewer on earth who would have gone to the annual Hop Growers of American convention and said, “I’m going to have a beer that we make 4,000 barrels of, one time a year. It flies off the shelf at damn near $20 a six-pack, and you know what it smells like? It smells like your cat ate your weed and then pissed in the Christmas tree.” - Bell’s Brewery Director of Operations John Mallet on the scent of their popular Hopslam.
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Jimmy
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by Jimmy » Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:01 pm
LiverDance wrote:I do this, mash in at lunch and boil after supper. I lose about 10-15 degrees in a blue coleman cooler. I'm not worreid about converstion since most is done in 20 mins and then I account for that loss when calculating my sparge water temp.
That's my view on it as well. I don't worry as long as it's decent for the hour (or less) that matters.
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dean2k
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by dean2k » Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:24 pm
Thanks for all the feedback guys!

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Barr
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by Barr » Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:40 pm
I'm experimenting this weekend with a Christmas Ale I'm trying to develope. It's a wheat beer with a little Vienna malt for color. Adding a half kg of oats and a little brown sugar to bump up the OG and give a more interesting mouth feel. I'll add tangerine zest at boil, mixed berries at secondary and dry hop with Christmas spices like cloves and cinnamon.
I love the freedom and creativity of home brewing.
Tap 1: Little Pup Pale Ale
Tap 2: Orange Ya Glad I Said Light Beer?
Tap 3: Roof Top Rye-It
Tap 4: Straberry Vanilla Wine Soda
Tap 5: Big Brown Roof Hound
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CorneliusAlphonse
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by CorneliusAlphonse » Fri Nov 30, 2012 6:00 pm
jeffsmith wrote:dean2k wrote:Yikes. We'll see how this one ultimately turns out. Still learning and adapting my methods. Having to insulate a cooler to those extremes, seems ... er, extreme.
I'd say go tech—throw a piece of foil on top of the grain bed before you close the cooler up and cover it up with a blanket. That should be enough to hold you within a degree or so.
yup, no need to get complicated. preheating the cooler is the biggest culprit. i dont even put tinfoil over the mash. With my blue cooler, as long as i put my mash in water in about 10F (5C) hotter than i need and wait for it to cool down before putting in the grains, and i chuck a blanket on top to keep the heat from escaping the uninsulated lid. i lose maybe 2F at the most over a 60 min mash.
planning: beer for my cousin's wedding
Fermenting: black ipa
Conditioning:
Kegged: barrel barleywine from 2014 - i think i still have this somewhere
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Stusbrews
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by Stusbrews » Fri Nov 30, 2012 6:22 pm
Another heat loss culprit is likely the small volume as well.(not much thermal mass)
I know I see a difference in temp loss between big/smaller grain bills.
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Tony L
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by Tony L » Fri Nov 30, 2012 7:21 pm
I plan on doing my Spruce ale tomorrow. Got my hose brought inside to thaw out so I can use it to
supply my IC. Brrr it frickin cold out there.
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canuck
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by canuck » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:06 pm
Tony L wrote:I plan on doing my Spruce ale tomorrow. Got my hose brought inside to thaw out so I can use it to
supply my IC. Brrr it frickin cold out there.
I hear ya, supposed to go down to -16C tonight.

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Tony L
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by Tony L » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:30 pm
canuck wrote:[
I hear ya, supposed to go down to -16C tonight.

I said cold not frigid

Jeez it's bad enough to drop to -8 let alone -16.
Just speaking to my father in Florida. He said he needs mitts sent to him.. it was only about 85f today.

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canuck
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by canuck » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:34 pm
Tony L wrote:canuck wrote:[
I hear ya, supposed to go down to -16C tonight.

I said cold not frigid

Jeez it's bad enough to drop to -8 let alone -16.
Just speaking to my father in Florida. He said he needs mitts sent to him.. it was only about 85f today.

Only 85F eh? I feel bad for the poor guy! LOL
I'm still dreaming of the Caribbean weather from last month........
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Jimmy
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by Jimmy » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:35 pm
Tony L wrote:canuck wrote:[
I hear ya, supposed to go down to -16C tonight.

I said cold not frigid

Jeez it's bad enough to drop to -8 let alone -16.
Just speaking to my father in Florida. He said he needs mitts sent to him.. it was only about 85f today.

I was talking to my father who happens to be in Florida as well - he was just having supper after a long day of golf

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Tony L
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by Tony L » Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:01 pm
Jimmy wrote:
I was talking to my father who happens to be in Florida as well - he was just having supper after a long day of golf

I wonder will I retire to Florida in a few years time
I'll let you know after I win the jackpot tonight.
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LiverDance
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by LiverDance » Sat Dec 01, 2012 6:12 pm
Heating the strike water on my single hop Polaris brew

"Twenty years ago — a time, by the way, that hops such as Simcoe and Citra were already being developed, but weren’t about to find immediate popularity — there wasn’t a brewer on earth who would have gone to the annual Hop Growers of American convention and said, “I’m going to have a beer that we make 4,000 barrels of, one time a year. It flies off the shelf at damn near $20 a six-pack, and you know what it smells like? It smells like your cat ate your weed and then pissed in the Christmas tree.” - Bell’s Brewery Director of Operations John Mallet on the scent of their popular Hopslam.
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BrooklandBrewer
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by BrooklandBrewer » Sat Dec 01, 2012 6:19 pm
Brewing a Cream Ale tomorrow. May add a bit of orange peel to it.

Currently At Brookland Brewing, Sydney, NS:
In Kegs: Four Seas IPA, Belgian Witbier
In Carboys: Ordinary Bitter (Bitter Bonnette)
Bottled:
Next Brew: California Lager.
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TimG
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by TimG » Sat Dec 01, 2012 7:44 pm
LiverDance wrote:Heating the strike water on my single hop Polaris brew

Dress warm kids! I'm going to brew a Rye DIPA tomorrow. Investigated using the water connections behind my washer to supply my IC, looks like it should work... my hose is all frozen as well!
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Jimmy
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by Jimmy » Sat Dec 01, 2012 7:57 pm
TimG wrote:LiverDance wrote:Heating the strike water on my single hop Polaris brew

Dress warm kids! I'm going to brew a Rye DIPA tomorrow. Investigated using the water connections behind my washer to supply my IC, looks like it should work... my hose is all frozen as well!
Yes, that will work. I've thought about doing that but don't want to screw with the pex pipe...it looks sketchy.
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TimG
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by TimG » Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:19 pm
Ya, the 'valve' on the end of the PEX pipe is definitely sketchy.. but seems to work out, wouldn't want to 'cycle' the valve weekly that's for sure.
Tim
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