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This is the new element I picked up off eBay. 4700W.

A little jb weld to seal the threads. Normally, this wouldn't be necessary, but this keggle was already drilled for a water heater element, but the new ss element uses a 1/2" npt fitting.

Bottom of keggle.

The old ripple element. Now for sale.

Very nice! I love the idea of a downspout on the kettle.

Why did you replace the ripp? I have two 5500w ripps on order right now - one for my HLT and one for the kettle. How long does it take for you to get a 10 gal. batch to boil?

There were a few reason I replaced the ripple type. I didn't have a spare, and the opportunity to buy 3 of one kind at that price was too good to pass up. These elements can be installed with 1/2"npt fittings, which is a nicer install than the 1" element. It's just smaller, so I am hoping to get a better whirlpool. Also, it was building up a very hard scale, and I wasn't sure if that was going to cause premature failure. And, I like SS, lol. I am assuming it will take the same amount of time to get to a boil as with the ripple element (4700W vs 4500W), but I will be doing the first run on Friday, so I'll let you know.

You probably know this but one of the reasons I went with the ripple is the other type is prone to popping if it runs dry. I am just not responsible enough to keep track of this.

Did you end up going with a control switch at all, or did you just end it with the 240v plug?

Also, did you step-bit that puppy in, or did you use a knockout punch?
Aa

I am always around and would never run the kettle dry the way I brew, so that was never am issue for me. I didn't bother with a switch, wires go straight to a plug. The pics above were a test setup with wiring connections that would be pretty unsafe when brewing.

I used a hole saw.

X, did you try out that sick kettle yet?

Yes I did. Pics coming up in another brew day thread.