How to Brew - for us newer folk

[TJ Brew]

There is loads of information and a wealth of knowledge about brewing on this forum. I do find that there are a few things that would be nice to have a quick reference for. This website http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html, I have found useful for learning more about brewing, terms, different types of hops, there even a few recipes (Both All-grain and partial-grain). It has some descriptions on how to prepare for your first brew, as well as what you will need to do all grain brewing.

It may not be the best or the greatest. It is an American website so the batches are all 5 US gallon opposed to the 6 IMP gallon batches typically made here in Canada.

Hope this is useful for some of the newer brewers!

[mr x]

All my brews are based on 5 gallons finished beer. I would think most people brew like that.

[John G]

US vs Imperial gallons.... I think the US needs to switch to metric like practically everyone else in the world.

[homebrewcrew]

Good link very helpfully for new brewers.

[TJ Brew]

US vs Imperial gallons.... I think the US needs to switch to metric like practically everyone else in the world.

I couldn't agree more John! The US is a big-ole-stick in the mud when it comes to switching to metric.

[derek]

US vs Imperial gallons.... I think the US needs to switch to metric like practically everyone else in the world.

I couldn't agree more John! The US is a big-ole-stick in the mud when it comes to switching to metric.

Yay, Kyle! We're taking over this forum one brewer at a time.

All my brews are in 40L batches. Of course, if I get everything right and hit 40L finished brew, it's a miracle...

[know1]

US vs Imperial gallons.... I think the US needs to switch to metric like practically everyone else in the world.

I couldn't agree more John! The US is a big-ole-stick in the mud when it comes to switching to metric.

Yay, Kyle! We're taking over this forum one brewer at a time.

All my brews are in 40L batches. Of course, if I get everything right and hit 40L finished brew, it's a miracle...

Do you, or anyone else do regular "double" batch boils in a sankey keg? I'm considering a 40-45L finished batch boil and I'm thinking anti-foam is imperative for this volume. What's the deal on controlling boil overs? And any time estimate to get a keggle with that amount up to rolling boil on a propane burner? (which reminds me I may have to look into structural reinforcing the stand for that weight)

[derek]

All my brews are in 40L batches. Of course, if I get everything right and hit 40L finished brew, it's a miracle...

Do you, or anyone else do regular "double" batch boils in a sankey keg? I'm considering a 40-45L finished batch boil and I'm thinking anti-foam is imperative for this volume. What's the deal on controlling boil overs? And any time estimate to get a keggle with that amount up to rolling boil on a propane burner? (which reminds me I may have to look into structural reinforcing the stand for that weight)

Yes. My boil size is 47 liters and I don't generally have a boil-over problem without anti-foaming agents. It's close - I have to add hops slowly.

How long it takes to reach a rolling boil depends on the burner and the temperature. My boil-burner was getting to a boil in under 30 minutes last fall, but last winter, at -20C outdoors (not really sure what temperature it was in the garage), it took over 2 hours.

[mr x]

I don't understand what the purpose in using metric gallons is. Kegs are US gal. And i like defoamer for my 10 gallon batches, makes life easy the way I brew.

[John G]

A spray bottle with water works well to control boil overs. Spray the surface when it looks like it's getting ready to go over and the foam dissipates. A good way to keep control of the boil until the break occurs and boil over risk goes away. Like Derek said, you have to watch out for potential boil overs as a result of any additions during the boil.

[LiverDance]

A spray bottle with water works well to control boil overs. Spray the surface when it looks like it's getting ready to go over and the foam dissipates. A good way to keep control of the boil until the break occurs and boil over risk goes away. Like Derek said, you have to watch out for potential boil overs as a result of any additions during the boil.

I find that adding some of your hot wort to the hops just prior to the addition helps with the violent reaction when adding them. I just add enough wort to turn them to much then add them In.

[derek]

I don't understand what the purpose in using metric gallons is. Kegs are US gal. And i like defoamer for my 10 gallon batches, makes life easy the way I brew.

I wouldn't use "metric gallons"

What's the purpose in using gallons? My kegs aren't in gallons. Given that I didn't know what their total volumes were in the first place, I arbitrarily calculate a "full" volume for both the sankeys and the corneys - and I do it in liters because it's a darn site easier not to make mistakes when everything's in metric: and I make a lot of mistakes when I brew, so it only makes sense to eliminate as many possible sources of error as possible. So 47 liters in the boil kettle, typically giving me 40 liters (but depending on boil time and humidity) output fills two corneys.

The only reason I don't use a defoamer is because I've never got around to getting any - but as long as I don't dump in too many hops at once, it's not an issue.

[mr x]

IIRC, The dip tubes on corneys are calculated for 5 US gallon volume. That makes them 5 gallon kegs to me.

[TJ Brew]

So I put the note about US Gallons in there in the event someone was trying to convert it to Litres. It is possible that people forget, or assume that everyone uses metric or Imperial (except for the US who use their own US Gallons). I know I have done it and not realized it straight away.

[Graham.C]

So I put the note about US Gallons in there in the event someone was trying to convert it to Litres. It is possible that people forget, or assume that everyone uses metric or Imperial (except for the US who use their own US Gallons). I know I have done it and not realized it straight away.

I use L wherever I can, but I appreciate it when people clarify US or imperial so I can convert to L. When I started I had a few batches with OG's way too high because someone didn't list it as imperial. Now I use software, but it is still nice to be clear. If you use L you don't have to worry about it, but most homebrewers are in the US so your not likely going to get them off their system any time soon.

[derek]

IIRC, The dip tubes on corneys are calculated for 5 US gallon volume. That makes them 5 gallon kegs to me.

Like I said - I had no idea. I've seen them listed as both 18 and 20L and 4 and 5 gallons. So I calculated, which is way safer than taking the manufacturer's word that they're 5 US gallons, anyway.

It makes absolutely no difference what units you want to use - the kegs don't change size - so it just makes sense to use the one that's going to cause least confusion to the brewer.

I still use Fahrenheit - none of my thermometers have Celsius

[Tony L]

Oh well, as long as we are totally hijacking this thread...
I brew 23 liter to end up with 5 gallons

[KMcK]

US vs Imperial gallons.... I think the US needs to switch to metric like practically everyone else in the world.

I couldn't agree more John! The US is a big-ole-stick in the mud when it comes to switching to metric.

Yay, Kyle! We're taking over this forum one brewer at a time.

I'm okay with the U.S. sticking with Imperial/Colonial/Republican as long as they don't export knowledge to rest of the world in that format.

My only experience with gallons is buying gasoline in the U.S. I wouldn't want to associate beer or brewing with gasoline. That's gross.

[KMcK]

I use L wherever I can, but I appreciate it when people clarify US or imperial so I can convert to L. When I started I had a few batches with OG's way too high because someone didn't list it as imperial. Now I use software, but it is still nice to be clear. If you use L you don't have to worry about it, but most homebrewers are in the US so your not likely going to get them off their system any time soon.

Yes, the beauty of metric is that a litre is a litre and a metre is a metre whenever you go (oh yeah, except in the U.S. where a litre is a liter and a metre is a meter; if Americans don't use metric why do they need their own spellings for the units?).

[jameswwright]

When I was brewing extract batches in Vancouver I followed recipes from the local shop and they were all for 23 liter batches. Not sure how standard that is but the extra 4 liters or so over a U.S batch seemed good to me.

[Graham.C]

When I was brewing extract batches in Vancouver I followed recipes from the local shop and they were all for 23 liter batches. Not sure how standard that is but the extra 4 liters or so over a U.S batch seemed good to me.

Yeah that's 5gal (imperial) as opposed to 5 US gallons (20L).