Home of the BrewNosers

Hey Guys,

I'm building an electric keggle, but only have a dremel to my name. Should I bother trying? It sounds like it'll be a couple hours and several cutting discs... Anybody have any luck using any local welding shops(Halifax) or anything like that? I don't have a vehicle which adds certain complications to this. Maybe an angle grinder is the way to go?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

edit: Also look for some help sourcing fittings on page 3 of this thread

jameswwright wrote:Hey Guys,

I'm building an electric keggle, but only have a dremel to my name. Should I bother trying? It sounds like it'll be a couple hours and several cutting discs... Anybody have any luck using any local welding shops(Halifax) or anything like that? I don't have a vehicle which adds certain complications to this. Maybe an angle grinder is the way to go?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I used a dremel to cut mine. It didn't take all that long, but I did go through 4-5 of the fiberglass reinforced cutting discs. After that, I used a few of the sanding pieces discs to smooth the cut out. Took maybe 30 mins. I was really surprised at how fast it cut through.

I guess that's not so bad. I've just read all these reports of people going through 20 discs on HomeBrewTalk. My new neighbours in my apartment building are going to hate me with all the noise that will be coming out of this project.

jameswwright wrote:I guess that's not so bad. I've just read all these reports of people going through 20 discs on HomeBrewTalk. My new neighbours in my apartment building are going to hate me with all the noise that will be coming out of this project.

when i brew the entire hallway smells like grain, but noone has complained yet, luckily.

jameswwright wrote:Hey Guys,

I'm building an electric keggle, but only have a dremel to my name. Should I bother trying? It sounds like it'll be a couple hours and several cutting discs... Anybody have any luck using any local welding shops(Halifax) or anything like that? I don't have a vehicle which adds certain complications to this. Maybe an angle grinder is the way to go?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

It'll be quite noisy either way. I used an angle grinder to cut and shape the hole and smoothed the edges with the dremel. I spent maybe an hour and I'm glad I had my ear muffs. It's not perfectly round but not bad. I cut the hole for the diptube/valve starting off with drilling holes, dremel cutting disc and rounding out with a grinding bit. That part took me about 30 mins but I didn't want to drop $30+ on a step bit and its a perfect fit. FYI, CT has an angle grinder kit for $40, reg. $100.

And if you end up going the grinder route especially, don't forget to put some water in the bottom to quench stray embers.

jameswwright wrote:I guess that's not so bad. I've just read all these reports of people going through 20 discs on HomeBrewTalk. My new neighbours in my apartment building are going to hate me with all the noise that will be coming out of this project.

Oh yeah. It gets really loud. You'll want to use ear protection.

know1 wrote:I cut the hole for the diptube/valve starting off with drilling holes, dremel cutting disc and rounding out with a grinding bit. That part took me about 30 mins but I didn't want to drop $30+ on a step bit and its a perfect fit. FYI, CT has an angle grinder kit for $40, reg. $100.

And if you end up going the grinder route especially, don't forget to put some water in the bottom to quench stray embers.

The only reason I have a rotary tool is due to the one on sale for $40 at CT, down from $130. I don't know if I can justify 2 power tool purchases there this week. Maybe next week...

Thanks for the water-at-the-bottom tip.

jameswwright wrote:

know1 wrote:I cut the hole for the diptube/valve starting off with drilling holes, dremel cutting disc and rounding out with a grinding bit. That part took me about 30 mins but I didn't want to drop $30+ on a step bit and its a perfect fit. FYI, CT has an angle grinder kit for $40, reg. $100.

And if you end up going the grinder route especially, don't forget to put some water in the bottom to quench stray embers.

The only reason I have a rotary tool is due to the one on sale for $40 at CT, down from $130. I don't know if I can justify 2 power tool purchases there this week. Maybe next week...

Thanks for the water-at-the-bottom tip.

I'll happily loan you an angle grinder.

I recommend a full face sheild if you use the angle grinder.

Thanks for the offer on the angle grinder but I'm in an apartment and I think using an angle grinder in here would be a bit more dangerous than the already dangerous dremel task.

jameswwright wrote:Thanks for the offer on the angle grinder but I'm in an apartment and I think using an angle grinder in here would be a bit more dangerous than the already dangerous dremel task.

Where are you located? You could use my place/angle gringer/zip disc etc.

I am in Halifax.

Sandy

GAM wrote:

jameswwright wrote:Thanks for the offer on the angle grinder but I'm in an apartment and I think using an angle grinder in here would be a bit more dangerous than the already dangerous dremel task.

Where are you located? You could use my place/angle gringer/zip disc etc.

I am in Halifax.

Sandy

Hey Sandy, thanks for the offer, I'll send you a PM as I may end up needing to abandon the Dremel. I'm right behind the Canadian Tire on Quinpool.

I got my keg today and it's a 13 gallon one with a plastic coating on the top part.


It took me 10 minutes just to Dremel out a small plastic chunk, I thought it would just be a mm or 2 of rubber for grip but it's like half an inch thick, which is almost as thick as the radius of my blade

I replied to the PM.

Are you planning to cut the wall where the rubber joins?

Any one deal with one of these before?

Sandy

I'm hoping to just cut a hole in the top so that I can keep the handles, but maybe that's a bad idea with the heat that will be applied. I don't know what kind of plastic it is, the only definite marking I can see is pertaining to the steel (304). There is another marking which is a circle like a clock with 1-12 around the outside and an 8 and a 4 separated by an arrow pointing up in the circle. I've seen some kegs that were entirely coated in plastic used as electric heated mash tuns on home brew talk but that's obviously not dealing with the same level of heat.

Also, I'm not sure what size of holes I should drill I haven't ordered my valve yet and my water heater elements aren't here to measure. They are the same as these ones though and it says 1" screw in flange. And it seems like the standard hole size is 7/8" for the 1/2" valve bulkhead. So I guess I can pre-drill the holes while I wait for the elements to arrive.
http://www.amazon.ca/Reliance-9000129-0 ... B000H5W1TQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You should be able to buy those elements locally. I assume you have 1" locknuts for those elements. I'd wait for the elements to arrive, and test drill some holes in scrap first before putting any holes in the keg.

mr x wrote:You should be able to buy those elements locally. I assume you have 1" locknuts for those elements. I'd wait for the elements to arrive, and test drill some holes in scrap first before putting any holes in the keg.

Yeah I'm sure you can get them locally but I got a bit too ambitious after a few beers the other night so they are already in the mail. Holding off on the holes sounds like I good idea, I'll focus on the top first.

Test holes are probably a good idea, I think I'm presenting myself as more inept with tools than I really am... hopefully anyway.

What else do you need before you go on another spending spree?

And did you order the locknuts?

Of course I didn't order the locknuts, that would just be too much thought put into it for me...

I'm still planning my fittings order, I'm planning to build a Coleman cooler mash tun at the same time as this so I'm trying to think about this order for a few days to make sure I get just about everything I need. Basically all I have at the moment is a cooler, a keg and water heater elements on their way. The only place i'm comfortable is in over my head haha.

edit: Any local recommendations for fittings, valves and that sort of thing? Keeping in mind that my only vehicle is a bicycle and I live fairly central in Halfax. I went to Canadian tire but I don't think the fittings they sell there are food-grade, I'd like to stick to stainless and copper if I can.

I might be able to help if you start building a list.

This is the list so far, there are a few holes and I'm sure I'm missing some other thingss but it's getting there:
Mash Tun
1/2" Male Barbed Fitting - http://ihomebrewing.ca/barbed-fitting-s ... m-npt.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Valve/Bulkhead - http://homebrewgearcanada.com/Weldless- ... With-Valve" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Large cooler with 7/8" drain hole - acquired already
1/2" Male Barbed Fitting for inside of cooler - http://ihomebrewing.ca/barbed-fitting-s ... m-npt.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
48" long 3/4" Washing machine SS braided hose - Candian Tire
SS Hose Clamp - have a few kicking around

Kettle
1/2" Male Barbed Fitting - http://ihomebrewing.ca/barbed-fitting-s ... m-npt.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Valve/BulkHead - http://homebrewgearcanada.com/Weldless- ... With-Valve" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Keg
Planning to build one of these but not sure how to connect it to the bulkhead:
http://kotmf.com/pix/displayimage.php?album=36&pos=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Heating elements x 2 - ordered already
And something I didn't consider, locknuts for heating elements - not sure where to get those, home depot maybe?

I can help on the keg items if you make a small change. You will need just the ball valve and a 1/2" locknut. I had to get my 1" locknuts from mcmaster carr.

Some of those other items may be easy to source locally. I'm sure some of the guys here will chime in. Go back to your first post and edit the thread title to help/local fittings, or something to that effect. There may be a supplier sticky here too...

jameswwright wrote:Of course I didn't order the locknuts, that would just be too much thought put into it for me...

I'm still planning my fittings order, I'm planning to build a Coleman cooler mash tun at the same time as this so I'm trying to think about this order for a few days to make sure I get just about everything I need. Basically all I have at the moment is a cooler, a keg and water heater elements on their way. The only place i'm comfortable is in over my head haha.

edit: Any local recommendations for fittings, valves and that sort of thing? Keeping in mind that my only vehicle is a bicycle and I live fairly central in Halfax. I went to Canadian tire but I don't think the fittings they sell there are food-grade, I'd like to stick to stainless and copper if I can.

yellow brass is generally ok provided you pickle it with some vinegar & H2O2, (look it up for proportions)

Have you considered starting out with BIAB?

Also keep in mind that you can't put more than one of those 120V 1440W elements on a single 15 amp circuit.

Brew in a bag is probably the way I'll go for my first few batches, I went to Noble Grape today to see if they had anything like that and the guy told me to just find a recipe on the internet, phone it in and they'll have the ingredients measured out for me.

I'm aware of the 2 circuit rule. I would have gone with a single higher wattage 240v element but my apartment only has one outlet for that and it's for my stove which I don't want to have to pull out and unplug. Also I plan on getting a couple of these or similar since I don't have any GFCI outlets at this place: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/POWER- ... _vc=HPPVZ3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good to know about the yellow brass, that makes CT look pretty good right now since they had a lot of what I needed.

check out TTL Supply in burnside.
they have the fittings at almost the same cost as the website. save a bit on shipping.