I am batch sparging as well, and I'm pretty happy with my efficiency. I can actually get a decent boil going with 7 gallons of wort on my stovetop, but it takes an ungodly amount of time to achieve. Would something like this be helpful?: http://www.amazon.com/Marshalltown-742G ... sim_misc_4
Could I wire that thing up to a PID for proper temp control? I would like to have the controller in some sort of small enclosure with power, temp control, and a timer for hop additions. This thing is supposed to heat water past 150, basically it would just give my stovetop a bit more oomph and speed up my boil. Is something like this practical for brewing, or would I be doing myself a dis-service by not going the DIY route, and mounting a real element into the kettle, either a single powerful one, or a couple of 1500w ones?
Thank you very much for the info by the way.
220v GFCI breakers
- moxie
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Re: 220v GFCI breakers
That might speed up the boil a bit. Its only 1000 watts, which is better than nothing.
I could build you a nice controller for less than the cost of an off the shelf PID that would also include a brew timer. I'm looking at building it inside of a weather proof electrical box with an LCD display and a few buttons. It can have as many temperature probe inputs as you want and many outputs to control SSR's and relays as you need. I'm building them for fun rather than profit. I'd rather take a trade than money for them.
I could build you a nice controller for less than the cost of an off the shelf PID that would also include a brew timer. I'm looking at building it inside of a weather proof electrical box with an LCD display and a few buttons. It can have as many temperature probe inputs as you want and many outputs to control SSR's and relays as you need. I'm building them for fun rather than profit. I'd rather take a trade than money for them.
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Re: 220v GFCI breakers
Garak, I am becoming quite interested in your abilities to build control stuff. I have a few cash projects in mind for you, such as fermentation controllers with ramping ability, and blower controllers for BBQs/smokers. A couple comments from the above conversations:
1. While those nice ss elements are 14" long, the ones I have aren't completely heated. They have three bands of heated area skewed towards the far end, so there is ample room to place some of that stick on the other side of the pot as far as I can see. For instance, use a 5/8" swagelok fitting that's been drilled out to allow the element to pass through it. Or, possibly insert the element vertically...???
2. I wouldn't hold your breath looking for a higher power rating in a shorter element. It took me a year to find those 4700w elements. You can order just about anything custom made from the manufacturers, but I'd be scared to see the cost.
3. Do you really need 1500w for one of those rims/herms setups? I would think for the system where you recirc the mash wort over an element, a much lower power rating would be needed. The flow rate is pretty low there.
1. While those nice ss elements are 14" long, the ones I have aren't completely heated. They have three bands of heated area skewed towards the far end, so there is ample room to place some of that stick on the other side of the pot as far as I can see. For instance, use a 5/8" swagelok fitting that's been drilled out to allow the element to pass through it. Or, possibly insert the element vertically...???
2. I wouldn't hold your breath looking for a higher power rating in a shorter element. It took me a year to find those 4700w elements. You can order just about anything custom made from the manufacturers, but I'd be scared to see the cost.
3. Do you really need 1500w for one of those rims/herms setups? I would think for the system where you recirc the mash wort over an element, a much lower power rating would be needed. The flow rate is pretty low there.
At Alexander Keith's we follow the recipes first developed by the great brewmaster to the absolute letter.
- akr71
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Re: 220v GFCI breakers
Oh, shit yeah!mr x wrote:Garak, I am becoming quite interested in your abilities to build control stuff. I have a few cash projects in mind for you, such as fermentation controllers with ramping ability, and blower controllers for BBQs/smokers.
X, you're a genius - Garak, you are an even bigger genius if you can build one of those!
Andy
"Now son, you don't want to drink beer. That's for Daddies, and kids with fake IDs." - Homer J. Simpson
"Now son, you don't want to drink beer. That's for Daddies, and kids with fake IDs." - Homer J. Simpson
- mr x
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Re: 220v GFCI breakers
Well, not quite genius, but just built a blower controller myself. The problem is it uses a PID that I'd rather have for other uses. Plus the size is a bit of an issue. I'd like to make a nice small package. Haven't tried it yet, but I'm itching to get it going.
At Alexander Keith's we follow the recipes first developed by the great brewmaster to the absolute letter.
- moxie
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Re: 220v GFCI breakers
PM'd.Garak wrote:That might speed up the boil a bit. Its only 1000 watts, which is better than nothing.
I could build you a nice controller for less than the cost of an off the shelf PID that would also include a brew timer. I'm looking at building it inside of a weather proof electrical box with an LCD display and a few buttons. It can have as many temperature probe inputs as you want and many outputs to control SSR's and relays as you need. I'm building them for fun rather than profit. I'd rather take a trade than money for them.
I have been looking around, and the biggest element I have found for 120v is 2000W... Would this be beefy enough for what I need it for? Too much power to be run at the same time as the stovetop? I think the best way to go for me is to use a standard 120v outlet with a 1500w element... BTW, I am starting with water at about 120 degrees, starting volume at between 6 and 7 gallons. I think this type of element would be okay!
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