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I think my days of cooler based mash tuns are coming to and end. My manifold really sucks on high gravity beers. Who's using kegs? How are they working for maintaining mash temps?

Are you getting stuck mash/sparge or shitty eff? We did a 60 liter batch on Sunday and got a stuck sparge. I've a couple of instulated kegs if you need one.

Could you just pump some water from the HLT back in through the coolers output manifold to unstuck the sprage? You would have to capture the outflow until it runs clear again, just like at the start of the mash out. I think that will work with the guys 60L setup.

X, do you have a pump in your setup?

We tried to back feed it but it didn't work. X your ss screen came in very handy in the scoop and filter method of sparging

LiverDance wrote:Are you getting stuck mash/sparge or shitty eff? We did a 60 liter batch on Sunday and got a stuck sparge. I've a couple of instulated kegs if you need one.

Stuck sparge. Efficiency is still good. I've got a couple kegs I can work on, I'm just trying to figure out what to do about the false bottom. There are the 15" hinged ss perforated metal type, but there are other options. Going to see what a wedgewire would cost (probably don't want to know, lol), and look at having a piece of ss custom cut.

Mash temps are my main question though. I guess everybody is using kegs, so it can't be that bad right? Nash says most conversion is done very quickly anyway, probably 5-20 miuntes for most malts...

Garak wrote:Could you just pump some water from the HLT back in through the coolers output manifold to unstuck the sprage? You would have to capture the outflow until it runs clear again, just like at the start of the mash out. I think that will work with the guys 60L setup.

X, do you have a pump in your setup?

Yeah, the backflush doesn't work, just sticks again very quickly. I do have a pump.

Steve and I did a 40L high gravity Imperial Rye ale that stuck. We decided to try mixing in a couple bags of rice hulls and started sparging again. Seemed to work as long as you have room in your cooler for the extra volume from the hulls. We were right to the rim and spilling over.

X - I've been using converted kegs for a while now and use the perf. stainless false bottom from Sabco. I'm very happy with it's performance and have yet to have a stuck sparge. I may have an extra false bottom kicking around. I loaned it to a buddy a while ago and not sure if it ever came back. If you're interested, I can look a little harder.

http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_falsebtm.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I ordered a 15" hinged false bottom from Jaybird on homebrewtalk, but as you know, I've yet to get my setup up and running. If you get a keggle going, you're welcome to give it a try.

JohnnyMac wrote:X - I've been using converted kegs for a while now and use the perf. stainless false bottom from Sabco. I'm very happy with it's performance and have yet to have a stuck sparge. I may have an extra false bottom kicking around. I loaned it to a buddy a while ago and not sure if it ever came back. If you're interested, I can look a little harder.

http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_falsebtm.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'd definitely like to try that John. And if you want to sell it, I'll take it. See if it's not in use anyway. Pretty much what Jimmy had bought, and what I was looking at at Climaxhomebrew.com.

Found it! I'll call you.

Damn, that's who called!! Sorry, missed it, I'll send a text message. I'll be back in HFX tomorrow evening, and I can pick it up anytime.

I use a cooler with a braided cord, and brew a lot of 8-9% beers (and just did a rye). Never had a problem, but also batch sparge, so the additional stirring may be the explanation. How did you build your manifold? Is it slotted or drilled?

It's slotted and drilled. I think it's the volume that messes things up. Too much pressure on the bed for the design. It works fine on malt mashes up to 25-28 lbs. Over that, hellish.

Woohoo!! New MLT almost finished. Thanks to JohnnyMac for the FB.

Man, I'm having the best brew day in a while. MLT worked like a charm. I can't get a grip on it, lol. Anyway, for anyone interested, I'll sell for $20 instead of turning it back into a cooler. I think it is still great for bees that aren't 1.090, lol.

Your making me want to scrap the cooler MLT I haven't even used yet.

I did get those kegs from wolfville after, delivered to my door at a much better price. I haven't brought myself to cut the top off one yet, almost feels like a sin to destroy a great fermenter. I got to make a kettle out of one of them atleast. I'm thinking my aluminum pot will become the HLT with the 4700watt heatstick. I got to find another element for the BK.

DId you insulate the Keg MLT? If so what did you use?

I did use insulation. One layer of Goretex, and one layer of bubble wrap. I think Piercey's on Robie is where you can buy it by the foot.

Bah, cut those kegs up, lol, there's always more to be had.

I would try to use the heatstick in the BK, then you can use a 'regular' element from CT, etc, in the HLT.

mr x wrote:I did use insulation. One layer of Goretex, and one layer of bubble wrap. I think Piercey's on Robie is where you can buy it by the foot.

Bah, cut those kegs up, lol, there's always more to be had.

I would try to use the heatstick in the BK, then you can use a 'regular' element from CT, etc, in the HLT.

Where did you get the goretex, and how does it come (is it a roll?)..Is the bubble wrap the stuff used for hot water tank insulation?

The problem with the heat stick is its about 1/2" too long to fit inside a keg. Just fits perfectly inside of the aluminum pot. I'm also thinking I want more power but with insulation and full 240v power it should boil a good bit faster. I could put it into a keg on an angle, I may need another piece of 5/8" o.d. pipe to make that work. I would be nice if the heat stick could simply be moved from the HLT to the BK.

I should head down to eastern passage tomorrow and cut the top off one of my kegs and see if I can make the heat stick fit somehow. I wonder what strange looks I'm going to get on the bus carrying the aluminum pot with the back of the heat stick and the lines for the immersion chiller sticking out.

I really need to find a doctor to clear me for driving. Had a seizure a few years back and when I renewed my licence last fall they required a doctor to sign off one me. I should of renewed in Newfoundland where my condition is already documented. My buddies car is sitting out in the parking lot while he is gone to Florida and I can't drive it.

I also got that $15 vacuum pump in yesterday. I'm really interested to see if it can be used to rack into carboys in a reasonable amount of time.

I had the scrap goretex laying around from an old project. The bubblewrap is the water heater type. A couple wraps of that should be fine.

Garak wrote:The problem with the heat stick is its about 1/2" too long to fit inside a keg. Just fits perfectly inside of the aluminum pot. I'm also thinking I want more power but with insulation and full 240v power it should boil a good bit faster. I could put it into a keg on an angle, I may need another piece of 5/8" o.d. pipe to make that work. I would be nice if the heat stick could simply be moved from the HLT to the BK.

I should head down to eastern passage tomorrow and cut the top off one of my kegs and see if I can make the heat stick fit somehow. I wonder what strange looks I'm going to get on the bus carrying the aluminum pot with the back of the heat stick and the lines for the immersion chiller sticking out.

I really need to find a doctor to clear me for driving. Had a seizure a few years back and when I renewed my licence last fall they required a doctor to sign off one me. I should of renewed in Newfoundland where my condition is already documented. My buddies car is sitting out in the parking lot while he is gone to Florida and I can't drive it.

I also got that $15 vacuum pump in yesterday. I'm really interested to see if it can be used to rack into carboys in a reasonable amount of time.

1/2" too big? Bastard.

It would be nice to be able to move it around. If you need anymore pieces, let me know.

That will look good on the bus, lol.

mr x wrote:...... in the BK, then you can use a 'regular' element from CT, etc, in the HLT.

Holy secret hidden code batman.....

lol, yeah, maybe we need an acronym sticky. I'm spending too much time on RedFlagDeals...

BK - boil kettle
CT - Canadian TIre
HLT - we know that one, I'm sure (hot liquor tank)

CT was a tough one but I guessed right.