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(Tried bringing back Garak's established thread, but for some reason couldn't find it)

...And am trying to decide which project it should be used for... I am highly limited on power in my house, (renting) so I can't build a dedicated HLT/BK. My heavily favored application would be to do a heatstick with a really basic PID control for heating mash water, also using it in tandem with my stovetop to get faster boils.

Another idea is to use it for fermentation control... Or should I just pick up a Ranco for this purpose? I am wondering if the PID will just keep turning the compressor on and off until it dies since it is so accurate.

Garak, have you made any progress on your heatstick idea?

I would be very interested in trading/paying someone experienced in this stuff to help me work this badboy out!

I would suggest you do not use a PID controller for your fridge unless you change the settings so that it is only doing on/off control instead of PID and setting a couple of degrees differential (hysteresis) for the set point - otherwise it will do like you said and beat your compressor up by cycling on and off too much to maintain a tight temperature range. However, I use a PID to control a heat belt to maintain temperature of my carboys sometimes. I keep the carboy in my cool basement and set the controller to whatever temp I need and it holds it to within a tenth of a degree C. I use a thermocouple taped to the side of the carboy and put a winter jacket over the works to keep it insulated. This only works if your basement or fermenting room is more than a few degrees below the temperature you want to ferment at since the heat of fermentation alone can cause it to go above your set point.

My heat stick works great but the cartridge heater I bought from ebay was the last one the seller had. They seem to be pretty rare item. There are lots of other cartridge heaters on ebay but none in the 4700watt ball park. I'd love to get my hands on a second one for the HLT.

My current plan is to heat the water in the boil kettle and then vacuum the water into a 5 gallon pyrex carboy and then reverse the vacuum pump to push the water into the MLT from there. I've done test to make sure this idea works. My rig will see its first grain this weekend. I'll be driving the SSR from my breadboarded prototype of the temperature controller. I've been busy with work and life so I haven't got the pcb design finished yet and sent off to be manufactured.

There are lots of other heatstick designs out there. I really like the one that uses a 2" tri-clamp fitting with a regular hot water heater element.

I wouldn't use the PID for a ferm chamber either. You can pick up a 2 stage digital controller on ebay for about $27 delivered to your door (I got two, they're great).

What PID do you have? I'd use it in a BK or HLT. Ever think of mounting an element right into a kettle?

-Rob

My PID is a SESTOS D1S-2R-220 from China.



I have thought about mounting the element directly into the kettle, but I don't really have the skills or tools to do it and feel 100% confident about the safety/seal. The impression that I get is that the mounted/sealed element directly in the kettle is safer and just appears cleaner and more practical. My kettle also has a tall/narrow profile, so it would be more difficult to find an element to fit the diameter. This is why I would prefer to trade and/or pay someone running an electric system to help me out with it. I am limited to 110 so maybe a 1500w element, and the control would be as simple as the PID, and an on/off switch so that I don't have to unplug it to shut it off. I don't have GFCI outlets, so that would have to be in line somewhere. Do any of you guys use a system like this? I posted a photo of my electrical panel over on the electric brewery forum to get some advice, and those guys were adamant that I not mess with it. A case of biting off a bit more than I can chew.

I have no problem giving you a hand with this.

What is the diameter of your kettle?

I'm building an electric system as well. I've started getting parts, but no PID yet. I have a 1-1/4" greenlee punch on the way, a box to house my element wiring (like Kal @ theelectricbrewery.com), also have an SSR+heatsink coming.

How large of a batch will you be boiling with 110v? Will you also be using your stove? 1500W in addition to a stove might handle a full boil.

mr x wrote:I have no problem giving you a hand with this.

That would be greatly appreciated.

Garak, the diameter of my kettle is about 13.5" I know most of you guys are using keggles for 10G batches, but I am limited to an 8 Gal SS pot and squeeze in full boils for 5.5 gal batches. (I have to keep a close eye on it as it approaches boiling) The fittings it has already are all weldless.

Rasp wrote:I'm building an electric system as well. I've started getting parts, but no PID yet. I have a 1-1/4" greenlee punch on the way, a box to house my element wiring (like Kal @ theelectricbrewery.com), also have an SSR+heatsink coming.

How large of a batch will you be boiling with 110v? Will you also be using your stove? 1500W in addition to a stove might handle a full boil.

I am starting with about 6.5 gal at the most, and I already get a full boil with just the stovetop alone. The problem is that it takes about 45+ minutes to reach boiling temp from mashing temp. That in conjunction with the time it takes to get mash water heated/etc make for a very long brew day for 5 gallon batches. The plan is to use the same vessel for heating mash water (PID control) and then also using it to help speed up the process to reach boil.

moxie wrote:

mr x wrote:I have no problem giving you a hand with this.

That would be greatly appreciated.

Garak, the diameter of my kettle is about 13.5" I know most of you guys are using keggles for 10G batches, but I am limited to an 8 Gal SS pot and squeeze in full boils for 5.5 gal batches. (I have to keep a close eye on it as it approaches boiling) The fittings it has already are all weldless.

Pick a time that's convenient, and we can work out a plan. I'm around the city for the next few days.

I'm building an electric system as well. I've started getting parts, but no PID yet. I have a 1-1/4" greenlee punch on the way, a box to house my element wiring (like Kal @ theelectricbrewery.com), also have an SSR+heatsink coming.

Would you be willing to rent out your Greenlee punch when you get it? It seems a waste for me to buy and ship one for the two holes I'd need.

Yes, PM sent.