I actually asked about the USD when I purchased mine, and this was the response:
All pricing is US for two reasons—first, most of our expenses are in US$ so with currencies changing so quickly these days, it is simpler to base our pricing that way and keep it stable. Second, most of our customers are in the US.
You free this afternoon/evening? You can swing out if you want.
That's weird. I did get a test from you, but I've sent you a number of tests since then, which I now think you didn't get. I'll try the old fashioned tele.
At Alexander Keith's we follow the recipes first developed by the great brewmaster to the absolute letter.
There's been a few people who mentioned they'd like to come out for one of my brew days to check out the system. I'm planning ((not 100% sure yet) on brewing tomorrow night, if anyone wants to swing by. You can PM me for address. I'm guessing a weekday evening probably isn't the best time for most people, so I'll post up again when I'm doing a weekend brew.
So I'm going to be brewing a saison in the near future and my basement is too cold. I'm looking for a way to raise the fermentation temp on the conical and trying to figure out the best route to go. I've thought about throwing a submersible aquarium heater in the glycol chiller reservoir and setting it at fermentation temp (that's how I'm running the chiller for cooling purposes) and continuously cycling it through the jacket. I'm wondering if anyone has a better solution - ie: heat stick in glycol reservoir , heat wrap or heating blanket wrapped around the conical etc.
I have thought about an all in one system too and also worry about the element in the ferment. What about building a big heat stick that you can remove?
Tap 1: Little Pup Pale Ale
Tap 2: Orange Ya Glad I Said Light Beer?
Tap 3: Roof Top Rye-It
Tap 4: Straberry Vanilla Wine Soda
Tap 5: Big Brown Roof Hound
Barr wrote:I have thought about an all in one system too and also worry about the element in the ferment. What about building a big heat stick that you can remove?
If you mean the boiling element, you can buy 100% stainless elements, or you can just drop a heat stick in from the top.
What I'm looking to do is control fermentation temp using either a liquid running through the jacket, or some type of wrap on the jacket.
Jimmy wrote: What I'm looking to do is control fermentation temp using either a liquid running through the jacket, or some type of wrap on the jacket.
What you could do is set up temp controlled valves on your hot and cold domestic water lines like I did. Have them join in a T in a lower port of your jacket and have the water exit from a higher port. Wouldn't be enough chilling power for a lager but a pretty simple and cheap solution for both heating and cooling ales.
Tap 1: Little Pup Pale Ale
Tap 2: Orange Ya Glad I Said Light Beer?
Tap 3: Roof Top Rye-It
Tap 4: Straberry Vanilla Wine Soda
Tap 5: Big Brown Roof Hound
I'm sure I'm the least qualified to give suggestions, but I remember reading many places that the temperature will raise anywhere from 3 to 8°F just from the act of fermenting alone.
Tuckamore, Vancouver, BC
Primary:
Bottled:
In the Fridge: Hawaiian IPA
Next Up:
In the Bank: Honey Blonde Bombshell, Hawaiian IPA, Mild Ale
Researching: Hard Cider
Celiacbrew wrote:You've probably already mentioned it but what is the purpose of the CO2?
I hooked it up to counter the vacuum that is created by the decrease in temperature. It was only set at 1-2psi, and only while the temp dropped - once it's at the desired temp it's back to the 1/2" silicone tubing connection that is used as a blow off valve.
Anyone see any issues with this oxygenation assembly? I plan on hooking it up to one of the valves on the conical (probably the racking port) and turn on O2, open valve, oxygenate, close valve, and remove the fitting).
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