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Took the top off the chiller tonight to take a look inside and clean the bugs out . There's 3 stainless coils that go inside the glycol bath, and are meant to serve beer or something..would make a mean set of jockey box coils..


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Looks like 3/8 or 1/2 " tubing. I'll see what I have lying around when I get a chance, kinda all over the place on vacation.

Took the 3 stainless coils out since they are pretty much useless in the chiller. The length measures approx 85' on the large one, 75' on the middle one, and 20' on the small one.

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Hmmm



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Do it!

Nice looking coils ya got there

Kick ass.

Transferring my IPA

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Did a bit of a test run with the glycol chiller today. Everything seemed to work good, but I still need some proper tubing and a pressure bypass loop set up.

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I'll see if I can find something soon. Really undefined schedule here...

mr x wrote:I'll see if I can find something soon. Really undefined schedule here...

I completely forgot that you were looking into something

I'm not opposed to buying a pressure bypass valve if I don't have to spend $200 on it. I'd be fine with the other one I posted that's only $50 if I knew it would work and could get my hands on it.

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I know there a quite a few non-members following this thread from around the world, so it's worth mentioning that the bore of the ball valves hasn't been an issue yet. The last beer I brewed was an IPA with 10oz of hops in the boil that I dumped once fermentation was complete (I forgot to do it before pitching my yeast). I also did a dry hop of 6oz in the same beer and had no issues dumping that.

What outside diameter tubing are you running for the glycol?

mr x wrote:What outside diameter tubing are you running for the glycol?

I haven't actually picked anything up yet. I just threw some 1/2" silicone tubing on it yesterday to try it out - I wouldn't want to use that as a final solution, though, as I don't know how much pressure it can handle vs what the pump would be outputting.

Once you figure out your line size, we can go from there.

I ended up going with some standard 3/8" ID, 5/8"OD vinyl braided tubing from home depot. The fitting on the pump is 3/8" and I had some 1/2" barb triclover fittings so I figured 3/8" ID tubing would be my best solution.

So are you using barbed t/c fittings at the kettle connections?

mr x wrote:So are you using barbed t/c fittings at the kettle connections?

Yup

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OK, what's your time frame? I'm on vacation, could be 2 weeks before something is in your hands...

No rush. I'm possibly brewing this this weekend, but I'm thinking about running the chiller without any solenoid and have it running through the conical non stop but set the chiller at actual fermentation temp. You think it would work?

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Sounds like a good plan to me.

Sent from the brew timer.

I think you should be able to get in a reasonable range if you can adjust the chiller temp.

mr x wrote:So are you using barbed t/c fittings at the kettle connections?

Suppose I could go this route also, might be easier?

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The think is that will dead head the chiller pump. Not sure if it's feasible or wise to cycle the chiller.

But that is my idea, just use a three port solenoid.

mr x wrote:The think is that will dead head the chiller pump. Not sure if it's feasible or wise to cycle the chiller.

But that is my idea, just use a three port solenoid.

I didn't mean use that solenoid, I meant use those fittings on the 3 way. Or are talking about my idea of running the chiller at ferm temp for now? If I was running it at ferm temp I wouldn't be using any valve to stop flow, it would just be constantly running through the jacket.

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