Water Question

[Halifax_Jeff]

I'm new to adjusting my water and would like to for my advent beer. I'm going to brew Janets Brown Ale from brewing classic styles (http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/ ... f=&t=18509" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) and I'm on the Pockwock water supply and I know a lot of brewers are in that area too.

In the thread it states that he does the following to the water; Ca-110ppm, Mg-18ppm, Na-17ppm, SO4-350ppm, Cl-50ppm... Can someone help me figure out what I need to do to get the pockwock water somewhere within that range. I know I could do the research and figure it out but I'd rather tap into this community.. or if anyone has some adjustments they make to most of their beers I would gladly use that info as well.

Thanks

[Lucas]

Do you have a target HCO3 level? For 100ppm HCO3 the additions Beersmith gives me are

3.7g gypsum
3.4g epsom salt
0.7g calcium chloride
0.7g baking soda
0.3g chalk

per 10L of water.

Edit: If you want less HCO3 (~30ppm) leave out the baking soda and the chalk.

[Halifax_Jeff]

Do you have a target HCO3 level? For 100ppm HCO3 the additions Beersmith gives me are

3.7g gypsum
3.4g epsom salt
0.7g calcium chloride
0.7g baking soda
0.3g chalk

per 10L of water.

Edit: If you want less HCO3 leave out the chalk.

I don't, but assuming 100ppm is a normal level that is very helpful. Is that added to the mash water before I add the grains?

[Lucas]

Yes, I usually add everything but the chalk to the strike water before the mash. I add the chalk directly to the mash when I add the grains as it doesn't dissolve as well. I just did a quick search and for amber coloured, toasted malt beers you want 50-150ppm HCO3 and for dark, roasted malt beers you want 150-250ppm HCO3. I would think that for a brown ale you'd be fine in the 100-150 range, but someone else might want to chip in with different advice.

[amartin]

It's probably ok. Yeah, the chalk won't mix in with just the water, it needs an acidic solution. I usually just sprinkle my minerals on the grain before adding the water to it.

Are you doing brew in a bag, or sparging?

[Halifax_Jeff]

I was going to sparge. I also thought about trying a no sparge. This will be my first all grain brew and I'm fairly comfortable with the process and my mash tun is big enough to do no sparge. Any thoughts on a preference?

[jacinthebox]

I like full volume...one less step...and my eff hasn't suffered at all....I actually over shot my weekend brew by 2 points

[Halifax_Jeff]

I like full volume...one less step...and my eff hasn't suffered at all....I actually over shot my weekend brew by 2 points

Are you using beer smith and changing to BIAB mash profile?

[jacinthebox]

Yup

[mthibodeau]

Jeff, just keep in mind my pot is just slightly over 8 gal and boil off for a 60 min boil is about 1 gal. So depending on your grain absorption my pot may be slightly too small, it was for my advent beer, but that also was a 20 lb grain bill so on the high side admittedly

[Halifax_Jeff]

Jeff, just keep in mind my pot is just slightly over 8 gal and boil off for a 60 min boil is about 1 gal. So depending on your grain absorption my pot may be slightly too small, it was for my advent beer, but that also was a 20 lb grain bill so on the high side admittedly

Had not considered this. I've seen recipes for both 60 and 90 min boils with the later coming out about 20ibu's higher.. I'd like to stick to the original recipe so it would be a tight fit.

[mthibodeau]

you could do it as close as possible, and do a small sparge, or you could put your extract pot on the stove and boil some extra to make up the difference

[amartin]

I was going to sparge. I also thought about trying a no sparge. This will be my first all grain brew and I'm fairly comfortable with the process and my mash tun is big enough to do no sparge. Any thoughts on a preference?

Oh, do what you're going to do, the pluses and minuses of the various mashing methods have been covered plenty elsewhere. I was just going to suggest that when preparing your sparge water omit the chalk and add it straight to the boil. Your second runnings are going to have a higher pH anyway, so I wouldn't be adding chalk to make it worse.

[Halifax_Jeff]

I was going to sparge. I also thought about trying a no sparge. This will be my first all grain brew and I'm fairly comfortable with the process and my mash tun is big enough to do no sparge. Any thoughts on a preference?

Oh, do what you're going to do, the pluses and minuses of the various mashing methods have been covered plenty elsewhere. I was just going to suggest that when preparing your sparge water omit the chalk and add it straight to the boil. Your second runnings are going to have a higher pH anyway, so I wouldn't be adding chalk to make it worse.

Ok thanks. I thought beer was supposed to be simple

[Halifax_Jeff]

I like full volume...one less step...and my eff hasn't suffered at all....I actually over shot my weekend brew by 2 points

Do you add extra grains when you do a no-sparge? I haven't been able to find a solid answer. I've read some sources say an extra 10-20% and others that do not mention it all and just reference the process.

[Keith]

I do no sparge, honestly haven't noticed a efficiency difference.

[jacinthebox]

I like full volume...one less step...and my eff hasn't suffered at all....I actually over shot my weekend brew by 2 points

Do you add extra grains when you do a no-sparge? I haven't been able to find a solid answer. I've read some sources say an extra 10-20% and others that do not mention it all and just reference the process.

I do not...haven't had the need to

I do more step mashes than in the past...this helps I think