Electric boil kettle control

[bluenose]

I realized last night that I'm too smart for my own good. In my setup above I put a switch and an outlet with the intent of using it to power a pump. The problem is that there's no way to shut off the element, so it'll burn out once the pump drains the kettle.

Is there such a switch the would have three positions: 1) 240v keggle element, 2) 120v pump, 3) off?

Edit: having the third position is not crucial.

[RubberToe]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=235

[bluenose]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=235

that switch says it's good for 10A is that enough for the 5500W element @ 240V?

[bluenose]

Status update with pics:

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Any thoughts on how I can keep a BIAB bag off the element so it doesn't burn?

[RubberToe]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=235

that switch says it's good for 10A is that enough for the 5500W element @ 240V?

Good catch, you'd either need one rated for 240 or use it to switch a contactor.

[RubberToe]

So you might not want to switch your pump in this panel at all...

[bluenose]

So you might not want to switch your pump in this panel at all...

I was thinking that'd be the best route since I have 110V outlets in the brew room

Any ideas on how to fill in the holes I made in the controller cover? haha

[TimG]

Not to hijack this (I think it's relevant). I bought a cheap AC amp/volt digital meter on ebay that looks like this:



Also found a 'diagram' on how to wire it.



Does this make sense for a 240V application? Do I just tap the tiny red into one terminal on the output of the 'controller', and the tiny black wire to the other terminal, and then just run one of the hot wires through the 'hoop' on the back of the meter? If so, seems simple (great!)


Thanks

[mr x]

Those tiny wires are your meter power supply. They should not be fed from switched power, or the lcd will blink off/on until it fails.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

[TimG]

So I just hook up the tiny wires to the input side of the controller then, and all I have to do is run one of the hot wires through the meter before it exits the box and I'm good?

[mr x]

That sounds right.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

[AllanMar]

I use this same meter (mine has a wired current transformer), works great. Even compared the current readings to a real clamp on meter and its fairly accurate (not that it really matters)

I never understood why the electric brewery guy adds two transformers and two powersupplys to isolate 2 of those other meters, rather then just using one like this.

[bluenose]

Any thoughts on how I can keep a BIAB bag off the element so it doesn't burn?

If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself. HAHA

Found this at home hardware:

IMAG1424.jpg

After a few slight modifications, it's ready for it's legs:

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I bought 6" bolts for the legs which are way too big. Going back for 3" bolts today and will post pics when final assembly is complete.

[RubberToe]

Will your temp probe be under that as well? If not, you'll have problems.

I've done a lot of experimenting with leaving my element on and recirculating to maintain the temperature. I made a false bottom with large holes like that for my keggle. I always found that the bag didn't drain fast enough to recirculate well for any length of time and there are other factors like the flow of wort away from the probe. I would sometimes get cavitation under the false bottom. All I'm saying is YMMV, keep us posted on how it works out for you. My personal prefered method ATM is single infusion hitting the strike temp acurately, stirring the mash once in a while.

[bluenose]

Will your temp probe be under that as well? If not, you'll have problems.

Uh oh, what kind of problems? The tray, for lack of a better term, covers all of the element, but is just shy of covering the temp probe. When I was doing propane, I was worried about snagging the BIAB bag on the temp probe if that's what you mean.

I've done a lot of experimenting with leaving my element on and recirculating to maintain the temperature. I made a false bottom with large holes like that for my keggle. I always found that the bag didn't drain fast enough to recirculate well for any length of time and there are other factors like the flow of wort away from the probe. I would sometimes get cavitation under the false bottom.

It was your false bottom that inspired this design, but I don't have access to that fancy SS plating. What do you mean by "cavitation"?

All I'm saying is YMMV, keep us posted on how it works out for you. My personal prefered method ATM is single infusion hitting the strike temp acurately, stirring the mash once in a while.

This is my plan also

[RubberToe]

If your temp probe is above the false bottom, element below it, bag and grain somewhere in the mix, the wort near the element will heat up a lot higher then your set temperature. It won't cycle off until the wort at the probe reaches the temp. Recirculating at this time is another factor.

By cavitation I mean a pocket of air. Could cause your element to run dry.

[bluenose]

If your temp probe is above the false bottom, element below it, bag and grain somewhere in the mix, the wort near the element will heat up a lot higher then your set temperature. It won't cycle off until the wort at the probe reaches the temp. Recirculating at this time is another factor.

By cavitation I mean a pocket of air. Could cause your element to run dry.

the temp probe is just a dial version and I don't use it with a PID or anything. I was planning on getting something else to drop in for the time being anyway.

the cavitation does scare me though

[RubberToe]

the cavitation does scare me though

You'll be able to tell when it's happening, the wort level will keep rising. It may not happen with your setup at all, just watch out for it.

[bluenose]

This lady has legs:

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At home in the keggle. Both element and temp probe are covered-ish

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[Jayme]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=235

that switch says it's good for 10A is that enough for the 5500W element @ 240V?

Sounds like you already have planned not to do this.... But FYI, your current draw for 5500w at 240v is I = P/V = 5500/240 = 22.9A. Granted 240V is usually closer to 220V, you still could not get away with a 10A switch unless you just are switching a contact with a higher rating.


Sent from a rotary telephone using taps talk

[bluenose]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=235

that switch says it's good for 10A is that enough for the 5500W element @ 240V?

Sounds like you already have planned not to do this.... But FYI, your current draw for 5500w at 240v is I = P/V = 5500/240 = 22.9A. Granted 240V is usually closer to 220V, you still could not get away with a 10A switch unless you just are switching a contact with a higher rating.


Sent from a rotary telephone using taps talk

yeah I backed away slowly from that one... that I = P/V equation is pretty handy...

I'm aborting the outlet in controller box for this version and just using a wall outlet for the pump

[bluenose]

So I finally fired up the beast tonight... you're not kidding about the 240V being a little nerve racking...

This is going to cut down my brew time considerably. I boiled 7 gallons of cold tap water in just around 23 minutes last night .

It took about 40-45 mins to bring 35 litres of room temp water up to a rolling boil. Does this sound reasonable to everyone?

This is going to be so much better than brewing in the shed

[RubberToe]

That seems a little slow for 5500W to me. Cranked all the way? Both of the hot legs are wired to your element, right?

[bluenose]

That seems a little slow for 5500W to me. Cranked all the way? Both of the hot legs are wired to your element, right?

yes and yes, well black and red are wired to the element... I was thinking it was slow

[bluenose]

I just found this calculator:
http://www.phpdoc.info/brew/boilcalc.html
Inputs:
35 litres
5500 watts
Start temp 20*C
End temp 100*C
Efficiency 80%
Time to temp = 44 minutes (39 mins @90% efficiency)

So it looks like my efficiency tonight was between 80% and 90%. And since I didn't use a lid, I think that's about right