Electric boil kettle control

[Jayme]

Also, that 5500 watts is more than likely @ 240V. Here, it's usually 220V (not sure if you have a way to measure). So the element's resistance would be R = V^2 / P = 240V^2 / 5500W = 10.473 ohms. That means the same element with 220V would be P = V^2 / R = 220V^2 / 10.473ohms = 4621W. That takes you up to 95% efficiency.

[RubberToe]

Cool, I should time mine sometime.

I guess when you're brewing you're going from tap temp to mash temp, then mash temp to boil; so each step will be shorter anyway.

[jtmwhyte]

The only difference I can think of with mine is I insulated the crap out of it and my kettle is aluminium. Isn't it the perfect little setup for indoors though?

[bluenose]

glad to hear the efficiency is where it should be

the time to 70*C was 28-30 mins I believe

I didn't use the lid and it isn't insulated yet, so once that's done this should improve, I hope.

[Jayme]

An aluminum pot would actually be worse - much better heat transfer than stainless. That is a good thing when heating external to the pot, but bad when heating internally. Though adding insulation would compensate for that.

I'd bet that by simply adding the lid you'll save 5-10min there alone.

[jtmwhyte]

http://www.grainger.com/product/EEMAX-H ... ent-14U399" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

curious of the brewing application of this. I have a "controller" that can apparently support 10000v, so I may look into this for a larger kettle.

[mr x]

10000 VA

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[TimG]

Getting close with my boil kettle controller. SleepyJamie was over to help on Saturday, and I did some more work on it yesterday. Essentially ready for testing tonight once I fix up the ground on my dryer plug receptacle.





The other circuit board in the box is my variable 12V controller for the exhaust duct fan (an automotive rad cooling fan), which is fed by an 8 amp 12V power supply I got off ebay for $20.

The meter is my cheapo volt/amp meter off ebay which I think will be sorta slick to dial in the ideal 'slightly rolling boil' settings for various batch sizes (and doubles as an indicator for whether the element is on or not).

Boil kettle essentially looks like everybody else's. Will snap some pictures of my temp exhaust duct (test setup using cardboard, will make a corrugated plastic version if it works).

Getting there!

Tim

[sleepyjamie]

Really easy DIY setup for anyone wanting an electric system but can't afford the agony of all the crazy wiring


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[bluenose]

I see you moved the dial to a more convenient location... gentleman and a scholar

[TimG]

So did a test 'fire' last night.. heated up 20L from 45 to 190deg F in 20 minutes, and that was without the lid on (which I just forgot about). Brewing with electric is going to be so.. quiet! No noise, just a bit from the bubbles coming off the element. No leaks, no sparks, no smoke, no electrocution!

I also tested out my exhaust fan controller. So awesome to be able to turn the fan up/down. It seems to blast pretty good at full speed (while still being somewhat quiet which is nice), but I plan to have a hygrometer (to measure humidity) nearby and just keep it set so I maintain 60-70% or so (the house could likely use a bit of humidity to be honest out here).

So nearing a test brew I'd say. The infrastructure around the equipment will likely develop over time. I plan on building a platform for the boil kettle (that will allow the bump/chiller to be mounted underneath). To the left of the pot will be a chunk of kitchen base cabinet and counter (friend doing a kitchen reno FTW) and to the left of that a utility sink. I'm sure there will be various hooks/shelves/etc mounted on the wall as well.

[TimG]

So, first brew on the indoor brewery last night. Everything went fairly smoothly, as things get more organized and 'everything has a place to be stored' it should be pretty great. Boil kettle worked flawlessly, exhaust fan/duct was great as well. Super quiet and does a great job of pulling all the steam out (no humidity issues). There was a bit of dripping from the bottom of the fan, but I'll just add a drip tray and not worry about it (it's an automotive cooling fan so can handle the moisture).

Only real issue was my mash cooler heater controller, which is a simple aquarium controller powering the 1500W 120V heater element (installed into the wall of the cooler). I turned it on around noon, and came back at 4:15 pm and it was at 90C! The controller was set to 67C so I'm not sure what happened... stuck relay? Some testing is required. So I had to frig around and drain some water, add new cold water, etc.

Some pictures:

[Jayme]

Yeah 1200W at 120V is going to be right on the borderline of overloading the relay in one of the STC jobbies (I think they're ~10A). The contacts might have fuses. You can probably just buy a cheap 120V control, 20A relay to run of the STC (well, you probably need a new one of those...).

Second option would be to open up the existing STC, remove the relay and just run control wires out to a higher rated relay.

I can walk you through either if you'd like.

[jtmwhyte]

Dude, did you build that range hood? Definitely going to hit you up for some details on that one. That's the only thing missing from my setup.

[Jayme]

I certainly hope he didn't pay for a cardboard range hood haha.

For the setup I'm working on, I was able to find a regular old range hood with a burned out fan. I put a new higher rated fan of the same diameter in it which was super simple. Can't say how well it will work, but I think it's a pretty simple/cheap option.

[TimG]

Yeah 1200W at 120V is going to be right on the borderline of overloading the relay in one of the STC jobbies (I think they're ~10A).

I'm pretty sure I opened it up and while they advertise 10A, the relay had 15A written on it. Also, I'm at 1500W at 120V (I think you knew that part).

Lastly, the STC was still 'lit up' just fine when I got home, but I may have fried the relay only I guess. Will test it out and let others know. I'm tempted to just put it on a timer actually.. the temp drop over time is very minimal, I could just test how long it takes for a typical batch volume and set appropriately for when I plan on mashing in. Be a bit trickier if I frig with the volume though.

Yes I built the range hood.. it was just a mock up to prove the design. I'll be making it out of corrugated plastic eventually.

[Jayme]

1500W / 120V = 12.5A. Though you're probably more likely at 110V so a little less current if the 1500W rating is at 120. Either way, they may rate it at 10A for a reason - Usually you don't want to go higher than 75% of the rating, especially with cheap parts. If it's only the relay that's gone, it's an easy fix.

[Jimmy]

Tim, what did you gear up to power the fan?

[TimG]

Sorry for the late response.. fan power supply is combo of this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC110-265V-To-D ... 5d42074955" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Think it was the 8 amp? (Was told my rad fan was 80W, at 12V that is 6.7 amps, so it must have been the 8 amp)

and this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-40V-10A-Pul ... OC:US:3160" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Works awesome. Not loud at all, great to be able to adjust the speed. Really happy with duct/fan setup (I'll be rebuilding the duct from corugated plastic but it is low on the priority list).

Tim

[jason.loxton]

What did it end up costing you, all in, for the controller (with enclosure, wiring, etc.)?

[jason.loxton]

A bit pricey, but for anyone who likes the idea of this set up, but doesn't want to build it, this might be a viable alternative: http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/mercha ... Ogod0m0A-g" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[TimG]

Ya, honestly I don't really know.. I mean it will very for everybody depending on where/how you source all the little parts. I'd suggest have a look at the pictures, finding the components and making a list of prices if you're concerned with overall budget. There is no question this setup is cheaper than most electrics (with big complicated panels, multiple vessels, etc). By how much, I couldn't say. It is also obviously more time than a pre-built system.

Tim

[homebrewcrew]

Looking good guys. Have a few projects I have to finish up first. But once those are done I think I will have to look into switching to electric as well.

[gyorke]

A bit pricey, but for anyone who likes the idea of this set up, but doesn't want to build it, this might be a viable alternative: http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/mercha ... Ogod0m0A-g" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just a heads up on that vendor. Lots of people including myself have had troubles with that vendor. Lots of details through Google.

[bluenose]

I didn't spend anywhere near $219 dollars on my build... TimG and mr whyte do a good job explaining how to build it in this thread... the electric brewery website is a huge help too