Electric boil kettle control

[ANGELofDEBT]

Here's the long explanation that I couldn't find right away

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_7/5.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[mr x]

OK, using a meter for rms measurement will have the appearance to be changing the voltage, but it's almost surely a standard ssr duty cycle circuit.

Sent from Tapatalk 2, a prick of a company.

[ANGELofDEBT]

Here are some quick pics. Awww crap for some reason they are upside down

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[bluenose]

is that a plastic case from a tool?

[ANGELofDEBT]

Yeah need something to enclose the wiring.

[ANGELofDEBT]

OK, using a meter for rms measurement will have the appearance to be changing the voltage, but it's almost surely a standard ssr duty cycle circuit.

Sent from Tapatalk 2, a prick of a company.

No it is not an SSR it is a SCR, or thyristor as previously mentioned

[mr x]

Then they must use 2 back to back, or you'd never get anywhere close to the rated wattage, nor boil wort.

Sent from Tapatalk 2, a prick of a company.

[ANGELofDEBT]

oh yeah since a SCR is "directional" there are 2 in the circuit.

[mr x]

Iirc, that makes it an ssr.

Sent from Tapatalk 2, a prick of a company.

[jtmwhyte]

I have this installed and recently brewed my first beer with it. Works great!
I does indeed clip the wave form. As the dial is turned down the applied voltage is reduced. The heatsink does generate some heat but nothing excessive. My model is a 6500W version, but works great on my 4500 W element.

Just out of curiosity, what is you batch size?

[ANGELofDEBT]

I have this installed and recently brewed my first beer with it. Works great!
I does indeed clip the wave form. As the dial is turned down the applied voltage is reduced. The heatsink does generate some heat but nothing excessive. My model is a 6500W version, but works great on my 4500 W element.

Just out of curiosity, what is you batch size?

Right now I'm doing 12 gallon batches but am planning on going to 15 once I get my 20 gal everwood kettle.

[mr x]

You can still do 15s with that kettle if you high gravity brew. I've been doing it lately and it's been workout fine.

[GuingesRock]

Any interest to anyone? Blichmann coming out with electric brewing.

[jtmwhyte]

My 5500W camco heater element came in yesterday can't wait to get the parts to give this a try



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[TimG]

Trevor,

Is that an ultra-high-density element? Where did yo get it (guessing Amazon.ca). Need to pull the trigger soon as well.

I'd like to get this discussion going a bit about wiring for this setup. I'm thinking straight wiring (10 gauge) from 30 amp dryer plug to 'box' that holds the controller. Wire direct to controller. Maybe I should go with an off switch? Can I really get a 30 amp 240V switch that won't have some power loss? Then direct from box to element, with maybe a 30 amp plug in between (to allow the box to be disconnected from the element/kettle easily).

Looking for a good source for the above components. Princess Auto? Local electrical supply place (will I get reamed with 'retail prices'?).

As far as actual wiring.. my dryer plug is 4 prong. Is this beneficial or does it complicate things? As I understand it, the 4 wire setup has a neutral wire which is needed only if I also want to run 110V circuits off the same plug. Is this right? Should I just buy 3 wire cable and a bare 4 prong plug and ignore the neutral prong?

Grounding.. I don't want to get into an argument on whether or not GFCI is required or not, what I do want to know is how do I design the best/safest/most reliable grounding into the system? Ground the element to ground wire in cable, ground wire in 'box' is just straight through (doesn't go into controller)? Then should I 'trust' the ground circuit at the dryer plug or something I take the ground wire to 'ground' myself. For example there is a big ass metal sewer pipe nearby. Should I clamp the ground wire to this to be sure of a 'super good' ground connection?

Ok, that's a good start on the discussion (me with a bunch of assumptions and quesitons, ha).

[mr x]

The element won't have a ground tab, and I'm sure I would try to put one one it.

[TimG]

All my questions and you only came back with a one liner!!



So the element will have 2 hot and a neutral connection?

[mr x]

Nope, just two hots. It will ground the case to the kettle when you bolt it on.

[RubberToe]

And ground the ground from the kettle power cable to the kettle.

[TimG]

What have all the e-brewing guys done for GFCI? New breaker in the panel is nutso $$.. even ebay. I'm likely going to get my brother to buy a $65 spa panel from a US Home Depot and ship it up to me. It'll likely come in around $110 shipped but still much better than $200+ for a breaker. I also get the enclosure to build my 'control panel' from.

If there is a cheaper or more practical option I'm all ears.

[TimG]

Also, what have you guys done/planning to do with the neutral (if you have a 4 prong dryer plug)?

[LeafMan66_67]

Also, what have you guys done/planning to do with the neutral (if you have a 4 prong dryer plug)?

Not sure of your particular plans, but if you need any cooling fan or indicator lights for your controller, the neutral is always helpful.

[mr x]

What have all the e-brewing guys done for GFCI? New breaker in the panel is nutso $$.. even ebay. I'm likely going to get my brother to buy a $65 spa panel from a US Home Depot and ship it up to me. It'll likely come in around $110 shipped but still much better than $200+ for a breaker. I also get the enclosure to build my 'control panel' from.

If there is a cheaper or more practical option I'm all ears.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3452&p=44498&hilit" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You could pick it up in a few weeks.

[TimG]

Ha, consider it done! We can chat over why GFCI is bull shit over a beer while I'm there!

[mr x]

Ha, consider it done! We can chat over why GFCI is bull shit over a beer while I'm there!

God, I'm not going there again, lmfao. But we can discuss what you are going to pay for it, hahahaaa.