Bottom Drain Electric Sanke Build - "Ivan"

[jtmwhyte]

Ivan's going to be tall mambajamba

the tubing is in 4' lengths. It's just high enough to put a carboy under for the drain. I'm thinking of mounting a pump on later on

[bluenose]

cool, you should be able to mount it right on one of the legs

[jtmwhyte]

cool, you should be able to mount it right on one of the legs

That's the plan. I don't think I'll be running this one until the fall, but I'll be piecing it together

[TimG]

Nash, how good would a bottom drain sanke work vs a conical for dumping trub, yeast, hops, etc? Significantly worse or only slightly?

[jtmwhyte]

Leg 2

[Keith]

Looking good! I take it you have a ladder to brew from?

[jtmwhyte]

Looking good! I take it you have a ladder to brew from?

Lol, I don't know why everyone thinks it's so high. It's 4 feet to the top of the keggle. I'm 6'2" so it should be just fine

[Keith]

Apparently the pic looks taller than it is. How soon til you do your first brew in Ivan's stomach?

[jtmwhyte]

Apparently the pic looks taller than it is. How soon til you do your first brew in Ivan's stomach?

Things are progressing faster than I thought. I was considering using a triclover fitting on my element. If I do that, maybe by the start of summer. If I go with a straight up blot in It'll be soon. I also need a bigger wort chiller for 10G batches.

[jtmwhyte]

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Allan,

did you have any trouble with soldering that ferrule to the kettle? I'm just wondering how strong a solder would be and whether I should get it welded on. Also, in your element box you have an outlet to plug in the cord. What type of connection is that? It looks cool, but I've not seen them before.

I've had no problems with the solder, but welds are still better IMHO... Its more of a question of whats good enough. For a strong joint you need to dimple the hole though, you'd be welcome to borrow my tool (and solder/flux) but I only have one for 1" or 2" ferrules (sounds like your doing 1.5").
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The plugs are SwitchCraft brand HPC connectors (cheaper version of Neutrik SpeakON), they're used for high power audio. They're rated 50A, but they're not strictly legal for power distribution (use at your own risk). There's a thread over on HBT about them and I think I seen someone else on here used them too. The more expensive ones are twist lock, these have little latch (doesn't work the best). If I did it again I'd get the Neutrik PowerCON version (I cheaped out because the 32A version was pricey). I have some 20A PowerCON ones for my pumps, and they're ALOT better IMHO.
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PowerCON:
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Allan,

I'd love to borrow your 2" dimpling tool, soldering stuff, etc. I'm going to order the 2" kit and a separate tri-clover to weld in. Would you use the long or the short TC fitting? I was thinking the short would be more stable.

[AllanMar]

Allan,

I'd love to borrow your 2" dimpling tool. I'm going to order the 2" kit and a separate tri-clove to weld in. Would you use the long or the short TC fitting? I was thinking the short would be more stable.

Sure. I have to warn you tho, the 2" one was made slightly too small (I did 2" exactly and it should have been slightly bigger). This means your going to have to dremel/fight with the hole a bit after it has been dimpled. Just let me know when you want to borrow it.. I've got a punch too (but they're borrowed and I don't want to loan them out, but we could punch it here).

I'm planning to upgrade my BK soon (currently 50L keg), so i may have another tool made (if possible) to save me the aggravation again (I did 4 holes, 2 per BK/HLT).

I went "medium" (id say it depends on what the seller calls them). The shorter, the better as long as you have clearance to get the clamp on.

EDIT: Actually, i probably have a 2" ferrule for you. I got a good deal on like 12 on eBay.

[jtmwhyte]

I'm in Halifax at the Museum of Natural History right now with the wife and offspring. Is appreciate borrowing the tools and the flange if we can meet up. I can have them back a week from Thursday

[jtmwhyte]

I'm in Halifax at the Museum of Natural History right now with the wife and offspring. Is appreciate borrowing the tools and the flange if we can meet up. I can have them back a week from Thursday

Now that I've successfully bummed the tools off Allan I'm unsure of what size hole to cut for the ferrule. It's a 2" ferrule, but I don't know how much of the keg I should be aiming to dimple out. Should I be going for a 1.75" (1 & 3/4") hole? smaller?

[AllanMar]

I used a 1-1/4" conduit punch (1.734" hole), I wouldn't go much smaller then then that in a keg (due to the thicker walls) or it'll be tough to dimple. 1-3/4" should work OK, whats the next size down you have access to?

[jtmwhyte]

Got the hole cut and dimpled. Three words to make lives easier for those drilling a keg Cobalt-drill-bit


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[jtmwhyte]

[AllanMar]

Now the funnest part, attempting to get the ferrule in the hole.

[mr x]

That's dimpled backwards...

[AllanMar]

That's dimpled backwards...

Thats how most people are doing them from what I've seen (including myself). IMO it's easier to clean, of course its annoying attempting to get the ferrule inserted.

[mr x]

I don't see any cleaning advantage.

[AllanMar]

I don't see any cleaning advantage.

To each their own I suppose. When I did it, it was difficult to get a smooth/even finish on the opposite side being soldered (can end up being small pits/crevasses). Where it's easy to smooth out the solder side, does it really matter? Not really.. In my case I also did some bottom drains, in which case I didn't want the ridge of the dimple up.

When I test soldered a few in a lid it seemed obvious, sure its harder to install initially but I'm only doing that once. Why would you dimple the other way? Just so the ferrule can be pulled in place.. or?

[mr x]

It seems far easier to pull the ferrule into place.

[jtmwhyte]

Bit of a moot point to me as it's done. As they say "there's more than one way to skin a cat"

[AllanMar]

It seems far easier to pull the ferrule into place.

It's not as bad as you'd think. With the 1" tool I have (proper size) its just a quick die grinder run around and a bit of work with a hammer.

The 2" tool I loaned to him however was slightly too small and as such requires a bit more persistence with a dremel/die grinder. Granted you wouldn't have to be as precise if you could pull it in place (NPT couplers are a joke).

Bit of a moot point to me as it's done. As they say "there's more than one way to skin a cat"

Have you attempted to get the ferrule in yet?

[jtmwhyte]