Critique my method

[pvanberk]

Hey all,

I've been BIAB brewing on and off for a few years now and am getting restless with the results. Basically I find my beer thin almost like it's water down. The flavors are good but it's not rich and I'm sure the alcohol content is low. I'd love some tips to improve on this. Here is what I do:

put 30L of cold water in pot and heat
at 145 F I add grains and stir (pot has a false bottom)
at 158F I turn off heat and cover pot
Leave for 60 mins
Turn heat on and remove grain and set grain on screen over the pot
While the water heats i squeeze grains
Boil for 60 mins add hops etc
Cool immediately with immersion chiller
rack to carboy, move to basement,
add blow off tube until things settle down and then add air lock
3 weeks later keg, purge air
set regulator to 10 and test daily until I'm happy with carbonation (usually 5-7 days)

I'm usually under my OG and over my FG.

I brew all grain kits from Dave and typically APAs or IPA. I'm really only interested in brewing west coast style IPA/APA. I like other beer but will happily buy those.

I guess that's everything. I've deliberately tried to keep things simple but I think I now need change things up to improve my beer. What do you guys think I should change, add, improve, etc. to get better beer? thanks!

[Keith]

What's your water profile? Also what's the PH of your mash?

[Keith]

I know you're in fall River not sure if you are on city water and there is a ton of shael in the area.

[pvanberk]

I'm on a well. I don't know the PH or profile.

[Keith]

http://www.everwoodavebrewshop.com/prod ... fsc-52.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Try this, should fix your Ph.

[GAM]

If you use Beersmith setting up your profile helps. I had to drop my efficiency and add 10%ish more grain.

I "dunk sparge" BIAB, lots left in the grain after mash.

A higher mash temp may help. Does your mash hold temp?

Over fg would not lead to thin beer. More grain and higher temp for the mash could help. Have DME on hand to get your OG till your dialed in.

I don't over think my beer and have gone to no chill method for simplicity. I hope your beer is drinkable (sounds like it is) and you can tweak the system to get what you want.

I can tell you that lots of good taste buds are out there and it does wonders for the ego to have a Judge, or learned nerd taste your beer and tell you what's good and BAD. Be ready for the bad, they will dwell on that but listen for the good.

Sandy

[pvanberk]

Do you dunk sparge in the mash or a second pot of warmed water?

With no chill do you leave it in the pot to cool? I brew outside is that a concern?

[LiverDance]

You might wanna try heating your water to around 170 and then adding the grains. That'll knock it down to the 150 something range. Your malts are going through a couple of ranges the way you describe and you may not be getting the most out of them


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[LiverDance]

And as Keith mentioned you should know your water profile and how that is affecting your beers


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[GAM]

Do you dunk sparge in the mash or a second pot of warmed water?

With no chill do you leave it in the pot to cool? I brew outside is that a concern?

2 buckets (I have 2 bags) and 10l of water in each.

have SS fermenters and transfer after boil and wait 10-24 hours to pitch.

S

[pvanberk]

Found my water test results... anything stand out?

IMG_20160402_131845.jpg

IMG_20160402_131830.jpg

[RubberToe]

This section on water should help:

http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/und ... -do-i-need" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;