http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/ ... e-and-cola" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
In Argentina it's known as "Jesus juice", in South Africa it's called katemba, in Croatia bambus and in Chile it's known as jote (black vulture). But most fans of red wine mixed with cola – typically young people who want to make a rough red wine more palatable – know it by its Spanish name calimocho, because Spain is where this cheap and cheerful "wine cocktail" is believed to have originated.
Soon it could be known by a different name again, and to a much wider audience via the launch of a new 36% proof (18% ABV) fortified red wine that's been made to be mixed like a spirit. The advertising brain behind it, Steven Grasse, who masterminded the launch of Hendrick's Gin and Sailor Jerry Rum, believes that Spodee, which contains high proof moonshine, will bring a bit of excitement to the "staid" wine category and that it mixes well with pretty much everything. "From simple highballs like Spodee and Coke and Spodee and orange juice, or even Spodee and tonic," he says.
Not that he'd exactly planned things this way. The inspiration for Spodee is Depression-era hooch, which was made from cheap country wine flavoured with whatever was close to hand – garden herbs, fruits, berries - and pepped up with moonshine. It was typically made in dustbins or bathtubs and served at parties (thankfully the modern version comes in a retro style milk bottle sealed with a cork). "Spodee is something I discovered while doing historical research for a new spirit I was pursuing," says Grasse. "I became intrigued because I thought I knew everything there was to know about Depression Era beverages. So I mixed up a batch and holy shit! So I did what I tend to do naturally, I started mixing with it like I do with spirits. What a magnificent surprise. I've created a wine that mixes like a spirit."
But what does the famously conservative wine world make of all this? Somewhat surprisingly it's warmly welcomed the move. With volume sales of wine down 27 million bottles in the off trade (according to trade magazine The Grocer) producers are increasingly turning to wine cocktails to help revive the market.
Jacob's Creek recently created a range of tennis-themed wine cocktail recipes to tie in with Wimbledon and in May Accolade Wines launched a Sparkling Collection, featuring Hardys Strawberry & White Peach Bellinis and Banrock Infusions, which includes a Sauvignon Blanc infused with peach and mango. Both companies say that they are currently exploring further opportunities to cash in on the growing trend for still wine cocktails.
Rob Cameron, founder of New Zealand winery Invivo Wines, isn't surprised by the explosion of interest in this area. "Mixing red wine with Coke is not a new thing at all," says Cameron. "In Asia it's been the norm for many years and one could strongly argue that it is good for the global wine market as a sort of 'introduction to wine' for new consumers. Innovation in any industry is always good, even in the often old fashioned wine business, so while I won't be queuing up at my local on Friday for a wine / Coke blend, I would be happy to try it and see what it's like."
He does not, however, think that this type of product will have any effect on discerning wine drinkers who "love wine for all its intrinsic qualities and are not looking to enhance with mixers". He adds that wine cocktails drift in and out of fashion as people's tastes change, citing the example of Sangria, which appears to have fallen from favour in recent years. There's also the spirits market to factor in: some drinkers will always prefer their cola or orange juice with vodka.
If you do decide to order yourself a calimocho proceed with caution. I once found myself in a tapas bar in Granada drinking a bottle of the best local red, when the bartender spied my partner – a Calimocho advocate – surreptitiously pouring Coca-Cola into her wine glass. He stormed down the bar to snatch the bottle away. "This you mix" he screamed furiously, pointing at the cheap barrel of house wine behind the bar, "this you don't" he wagged his finger pointing at the bottle of local plonk.
