No bubbles in airlock.

[maglorski]

First time trying a kit beer (Best Case west coast PA)

I've got the bucket in a dark room @ 20 degrees C, something seems to be happening because the smell got stronger from day to day.

I took a peek through the bung hole and could see there was kraeusen about an inch or so from the bucket lid.

But for whatever reason there are no bubbles in the airlock. I had thought I had a leak somewhere but when I push down gently on the lid the water in the airlock moves even with the lightest touch.

Anything I need to be concerned about?

[Broob]

I would say nothing to worry about. You could try taking a gravity reading to see where you're at.

[Hobbitfu]

How long since pitching yeast? If you have kraeusen things should be fine. If you pulled the bung out to look will have released some CO2 and need to build up again before bubbling. Give it some time and check again.

[maglorski]

I pitched it Sunday night at 1115PM, the kit indicated I'd see bubbling at 24hrs.

No bubbling at the 24hr mark but the water levels in each part of the airlock were different...suggesting a build of of pressure on the pail side?

[Hobbitfu]

Yes and the kraeusen would confirm that. How big a fermenter for what size batch. More head space will require more co2 buildup. And conditions will change whether 24 hours is adequate to see bubbling. Each yeast is different. Can always give a gentle swirl of fermenter to rouse yeast if still no bubbling and you are sure there is no air leaks. Was it liquid or dry yeast.

[maglorski]

Dry yeast.

[Hobbitfu]

Did you rehydrate or pitch right into chilled wort? There is some debate on the topic, but pitching directly can result in some of the yeast dying from shock. This would in turn lead to longer time to really kick in. Give it some more time and should be all right.

[maglorski]

Dry right into the cooled wort...I was torn, the directions on the yeast said to hydrate, the instructions in the box said sprinkle the dry yeast right on top.

As the instructions were put together by the retailer I went with the dry yeast.

It said I could pitch the yeast at 28 degrees C. Using a laser thermometer I check the temp and it said 26 on the surface so I pitched it then. However, I checked the temperature of the side of the bucket in the middle and it said 30. I chatted with the guy at the store and he had said it should be ok as yeast is hardy enough until about 34. Should I be looking at throwing some more in?

Should I opt to hydrate the yeast for future batches?

[Hobbitfu]

I generally rehydrate first. Found it to be a safer option. Though many will have success directly pitching. The temp may have been a factor though generally rehydrating at that temp anyway (though in water not wort). If not active tomorrow i would pitch more if you have it on hand. I think it should kick in yet if it had kraeusen. (fingers crossed)

[Hobbitfu]

A pale ale... Was it US-05? Or Danstar BRY-97?(or some other) both arw usually pretty reliable if within the date on package and stored properly. I would swirl the fermenter some (dont slosh just create a gentle whirlpool). If it settled some this should rouse some yeast back into suspension.

[chalmers]

If you have a krausen, then the beer is fermenting. I'd leave it for a week, and then check the gravity. Pitching at 28-30C won't kill the yeast, but fermenting it that warm* will give you some esters and other flavours that are atypical of IPAs. I agree with Hobbitfu's thoughts on rehydrating (though I often take the lazy way out).

Speaking about vendor's instructions, if it warns you to transfer off of the yeast in 3 days, so that it doesn't spoil, ignore that. Most folks will ferment for a week-plus (sometimes several weeks), and use our hydrometer as a guide for when the beer is done. If you practice the three important rules of brewing (sanitation, sanitation and sanitation), you've got nothing to worry about. The less you fiddle with it, the better. Many of us will also skip the secondary, and transfer direct from an extended primary into kegs or bottles.

*When fermentation is active, the process gives off lots of heat. Even if your room is at 20C, the beer could be several degrees warmer. That's why many of us regular brewers use active or passive cooling techniques during the ferment.

[Hobbitfu]

Dido on everything he said. I generally leave my beer in fermenter for minimum 2 weeks. Often 3 depending on beer. Not only does it ensure fermentation is done but also gives yeast time to clean up (ie diacytl). Sanitation is key! Every batch is a learning experience so take notes and learn!

[Keith]

I've seen beers take off right away and others lag and take their sweet time. Don't sweat it. As for activity in the airlock. I'll normally get some bubbling for a few days, however if you have a S type, you won't see it as active.

As for yeast, I use US-04 & US-05 on almost every batch. I never rehydrate (I brew 20-30 gal per month, less chance for infection, and 1 less thing to clean ) and no issues so far. I've done the same with WB-06 and T-58.
I normally leave my beer on the yeast cake for 10-14 days. No issues or off flavors seen so far.

[maglorski]

Ok, many thanks for all the advice! This is been enlightening!

@Hobbitfu the name on the yeast package was Nottingham Ale, other than that I don't know anything else about it.

I looked at it this morning...still no bubbles. Still good? Should I consider re-pitching?

The kit does say to rack at 5 days after fermentation, which would put me at tomorrow (which is a guess, only because I saw krausen Tuesday morning). But is the general consensus to leave it a little longer?

Should I drop the room temperature to 18 deg C?

I was given an oz of hops to dry hop in secondary as well.

Sorry for all the questions...

[Hobbitfu]

Questions are great thats why we're here! Nottingham is by Danstar and is a fairly neutral yeast (as flavour goes). It is usually a fairly active yeast and flocculates very well. Makes racking easy. I would not rack off yeast after 5 days. Leave at least 2 weeks. I never use a secondary. I will throw in dry hops (usually in a bag or such to minimize particulates after) right into primary. Racking to a secondary increases risk of oxidation and contamination. And just creates more cleaning.

How much wort did you have and in what volume a fermenter. If its still lagging a bit (as far as appearance goes) i would try to rouse yeast by whirling the fermenter a bit. Especially as Nottingham is such a good floccing yeast. It. May settle prematurely. This could kick start things a bit.

But as Charlie Papazian says... Relax, enjoy and have a (home)brew. Things will work out. Sounds like there is activity and is sometimes hard to "see" inside what is going on. Keep us posted!

[Hobbitfu]

As far as temp. If its at 20C now i would n't worry. 18 may just slow things at this point.

I usually throw the dry hops in after week or week and a half then leave for 5-7 days and then rack to bottling pot.

[maglorski]

In terms of not racking to secondary, I guess I'm a little concerned about possible contamination because I've got a leak somewhere in the bucket that will go unchecked.

I made a 23l wort. The bucket I used is a little over 23l I think - it said that 1cm below in the inner ridge is 23l.

[chalmers]

^^ What he said.

Do you have a hydrometer? If not, I'd suggest purchasing one. The gravity of the beer is a better way of checking its completion than looking at the bubbles in the airlock or the krausen. Having said that, in normal operation, if your bubbling has slowed down to a few bubbles per minute, instead of bubbles per second, this is an indication that the yeast is done (and final gravity reached, if at a normal fermenting temp). I know you're not seeing any bubbles from this batch, that's where a hydrometer would help.

I would definitely NOT rack off of the yeast Friday. Leave it another week, and don't check on it until then. The fewer times you break the seal (if there is one), the less chance of contamination. In a week, use a hydrometer to check the gravity. I don't know what the OG (original/starting gravity) was, but I'd guess your FG (final gravity) should be 1.008-1.012. If it's much higher than that, wait. If it's in the range, or lower, then I'd say you could either (a) dump the hops in and wait another 2 weeks in the bucket, moving it to a cooler spot (or chill the room), and then bottle, or (b) transfer to secondary, and dump the hops in, and wait a couple of weeks, and then bottle.

Edit to add to your comment above: the fewer times you move the beer around, the better, in terms of sanitation. I'm not familiar with any NS wild yeasts that will form a krausen like you've seen, so that's your Nottingham at work. The leak is probably in the lid somewhere, maybe right around the bung or airlock. What type of airlock is it?

Knowing all of this about your particular situation, I would still wait a while, and check gravity in a week.

[maglorski]

I do have a hydrometer, OG was 1.044.

The airlock is the 'S' style, I think it's called?

[Keith]

I do have a hydrometer, OG was 1.044.

The airlock is the 'S' style, I think it's called?

What's the current reading?

[Hobbitfu]

At 1.044 this will be a lower abv beer so may not Bubble hard. Sounds like you don't have a lot of space between wort and lid?

I agree leave it and open as little as possible.

[maglorski]

There's probably a little over an inch between the krausen and the lid.

Haven't taken a gravity reading since the first time.

[chalmers]

You've just named the airlock.

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/airlock- ... -type.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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The bottom of the krausen *may* have fallen down below the top, visible, level, but I wouldn't futz around in there too much.

Easy for all of us to say, I know, but I think the general consensus is to wait a while before doing anything more drastic.

[maglorski]

Ok! I'll leave it be for a bit, then check the gravity.

Thanks to all for your help!