Mash Ton Options

[rickc]

Hi,

So I have finally done some reading and I am starting to get an idea of what I'm getting into with all grain brewing. I am having trouble deciding if I should use a cooler for a mash ton or a a big pot. The pot is defiantly more expensive.... but It looks like it may be worth it to have better control over the temp. , so that is the way that I am leaning right now. I am looking for a little shove in the right direction of what would be good way to start out as I still don't really know a whole lot about this, but I am getting a bit anxious to so get started.

Thanks for you help

Rick

[mr x]

I'm not sure there is a right answer there. Plenty of both options in use....although I am very happy having converted to a sanke for a MLT.

[Jimmy]

I've got a converter keggle as a mash tun, and although there are some benefits, I'm contemplating the move to a cooler mash tun.

Some thoughts:

-I brew in an apartment, so lugging the converted keg around to clean is just a pain in the ass. A converted cooler would be a lot lighter, and wouldn't scratch my bathtub to shit like a keggle does (I've started using a yoga mat in the tub for this now..lol)
-A cooler can hold temperature VERY efficiently, so adding heat isn't really an issue (unless you undershoot your mash temperature, which you would get a grasp of after doing a few batches)
-Keggles don't hold heat very efficiently, so extended mashes, mashes in cold temperatures etc. will require you to add heat. There is insulation options around, none of which are as good as a cooler, and most of which can't be direct fired. I've used refletix and melted the shit out of it..
-If you'd ever like to break up your brew day and do overnight mashes, I don't think you'd have much luck with a keggle.

My biggest reason for wanting to give the cooler a go is because of it's efficiency. I hate worrying about how much my mash is dropping, having to remove insulation, direct fire, re-apply insulation, etc.

Hopefully that helps a bit.

[Graham.C]

If temp control is your concern you can set up a sudo-RIMS system with a cooler if you have a pump (or enjoy carting hot liquid back and fourth). I use a cooler, but often wonder if the keggle would have been better, but am very happy with my cooler.

You could always start with BIAB, then decide on a MT later based on what works for you. That way you can get into all grain without having to make the choice yet.

[GAM]

You can try my cooler (9kg max) and see if you like it.

Sandy

[BrooklandBrewer]

I use a cooler as my MT with a copper manifold. Keeps the temperatures fairly steady. No issues so far.

[Stusbrews]

The volume you want to mash is a biggie. Im using a 12 gal cooler, but I doubt I can do 10 gal batches in it, or at least not the higher grav ones.
5 gal at a time is fine with me tho. And I actually wish the MT was a wee bit smaller, like 10gal. But it works!

[Timothy Doane]

Hi,

I started out with a cooler, then for the time/amount of work/effort involved - I quickly moved to a sanke keg now do double batches.

Tim

[jason.loxton]

I use a large Coleman Xtreme cooler (http://www.coleman.com/Products/8581/xtremereg-coolers" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). I think I have the 62 quart version, but they come even bigger (up to 30 gallons!). Mine is fine to do 10 gallon batches. I just upgraded and threw on a cooler bulkhead, three piece valve, and bazooka screen from Ontario Beer Kegs (http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_ ... lkhead.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). All of them fit perfectly, with no alterations beyond pushing out the plastic valve that comes in the cooler (no drilling etc.). I get no more than a degree or so of heat loss in a 60 minute mash. I batch sparge though, so perhaps things might be different if you didn't, but I stand with Denny Conn on simplicity here: it is easy and it works fine, so I see no reason to complicate things.

[IanCompetent]

BBrianBoogie helped me convert a Coleman cooler into a mash tun with just a small faucet, some PVC pipe fittings and a toilet braid for a filtre. I'm pretty geeky when it comes to hitting all of the numbers during my mash and sparge and never had any issues maintaining any temperatures. If you pre-heat with a few litres of boiled water, keep it from any cold air coming in and wrap it in a few blankets, you're basically golden with this set-up.

If you need a hand finding the exact parts, PM me and I'll help you out the best that I can.

[IanCompetent]

Hi,

I started out with a cooler, then for the time/amount of work/effort involved - I quickly moved to a sanke keg now do double batches.

Tim

If you don't mind me asking: Where did you get your Sanke keg Tim??

[rickc]

I use a large Coleman Xtreme cooler (http://www.coleman.com/Products/8581/xtremereg-coolers" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). I think I have the 62 quart version, but they come even bigger (up to 30 gallons!). Mine is fine to do 10 gallon batches. I just upgraded and threw on a cooler bulkhead, three piece valve, and bazooka screen from Ontario Beer Kegs (http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_ ... lkhead.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). All of them fit perfectly, with no alterations beyond pushing out the plastic valve that comes in the cooler (no drilling etc.). I get no more than a degree or so of heat loss in a 60 minute mash. I batch sparge though, so perhaps things might be different if you didn't, but I stand with Denny Conn on simplicity here: it is easy and it works fine, so I see no reason to complicate things.

Hi,

Thanks for all of your suggestions. The setup above sounds really easy to put together, so I am leaning towards this one.

Do you have any issue with stuck sparges where the mash is draining towards a central line instead of having it spread out and draining uniformly with a manifold?

Thanks

[Graham.C]

Bazooka screens are the way to go if you don't do a manifold. I started with the braided stainless but since moved to the Bazooka. It probably saves me 20min on a brew day for a $10 part (same price as the braided).

[Jimmy]

I've already got 1/2" stainless ball valves, what else do I need to convert a cooler? I'm assuming I don't need a bazooka or pickup since there will be no grain - only wort in the cooler.

[dean2k]

So I was curious about the word "tun" and started googl'n. 252 US gallons. Considering I was weighing my Canadian Tire options for 2 vs. 3 gal. coolers for my foray into stove-top brewing, I may need to revise my mash tun search.

[Graham.C]

I've already got 1/2" stainless ball valves, what else do I need to convert a cooler? I'm assuming I don't need a bazooka or pickup since there will be no grain - only wort in the cooler.

Probably a nut and a nipple. Some washers might help to keep it from dripping, but I don't use them and so far no real problems.

[Jimmy]

Is this the proper bulkhead for a standard cooler, or is it designed for the round drink dispensing coolers?

http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_ ... lkhead.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[mr x]

I think they are the same, unless sombody is curving the washers.

Sent from my Nexus S

[dean2k]

Time for me to revive an old thread again. I picked up a 5 gallon Rubbermaid cylindrical cooler for my small-scale brewing. I hope to get all the hardware I need at the local hardware stores, and use a similar set-up to THIS, which I'm sure a lot of you already have done successfully. Is there anything important I should know up front? Any surprises?

[CorneliusAlphonse]

Time for me to revive an old thread again. I picked up a 5 gallon Rubbermaid cylindrical cooler for my small-scale brewing. I hope to get all the hardware I need at the local hardware stores, and use a similar set-up to THIS, which I'm sure a lot of you already have done successfully. Is there anything important I should know up front? Any surprises?

Good cooler probably up to 3 gallon batch size! you can get a full assembly like that pretty easily now, and not have to muss about finding parts. bazooka screen + weldless bulkhead - my brother got one from noble grape, and it's workin pretty well for him in his cooler.

[amartin]

What size batched are you planning? I used a 5 gallon pot for years as a mash tun for 6 gallon batches, although for anything over 1.060 I would add malt extract.

[dean2k]

Don't worry. I don't intend on doing anything over 1 gallon (okay maybe 2 gallons, maybe). What I was specifically referring to is whether there are any tips or tricks regarding the conversion, leakage, use this, don't use that, for the love of Lebowski don't ever use that, etc.

[Jimmy]

Is there much of a cost savings by going that route vs premade from OBK? I'm all for picking the parts up yourself, but if theres little/no cost savings I don't see the point. Also, I've never used the braid or a bazooka screen, but from what I've read the bazooka screen is well worth the extra money. I'm sure others who have used both will chime in.

[dean2k]

My intent (for now) is to experiment with a hybrid BIAB-cooler method, so I technically don't need either for the time being. I know nothing about the OBK kit, so it's definitely something for me to investigate. But if I want to sneak a brew in this weekend using the cooler, it'll have to be a trip to Kent.

[Newfie_Brewer]

I started with a cooler but then got a little worried about putting hot liquid in a plastic cooler. Over time I would think that the cooler would start to break down and then you don't know what you are drinking. I upgraded to an inverted sanke keg. First I cut the bottom out of the keg. Then I used a 2" tri-clover fitting with a 1/2" NPT connected to the sanke fitting on the keg (minus the valve and sanke dip tube). All the wort drains through a false bottom and out the sanke/tri-clover/NPT fitting. I have zero dead space and can collect all the wort after mashing. No drilling holes for valves, no dip tubes...really surprised I have not seen more done this way. Breaking it down for cleaning is also a breeze with just one tri-clover clamp.

To maintain temperature, I wrapped one layer of yoga mat and then put a layer of the silver bubble wrap insulations that is used for pipes, hot water tanks, etc. I also use a HERMS usit so temperature is a non issue for me.

The ONLY downside is that since the keg is inverted, I have no handles since the original handles on the keg are now at the bottom. VERY minor inconvenience...