Auberins SYL-2352 PID advice

[Barr]

Ok so I built a brew controller and it has a Auberins SYL-2352 PID unit in it. Instructions are confusing and I'm not sure if Ive done it all right. So it seems to be reading accurately but I'm not getting power to the element. The SSR light is on so it seems like the PID is doing it's job but no heat. Anyone out there have experience with this model? Any ideas?

[AllanMar]

If the ssr is on your problem shouldn't be the pid. Got anymore more info/drawings/pics of how it's all wired?

[Barr]

This is the drawing I followed.

[Barr]

Heat sink doesn't seem to be getting hot either. I think I'll give it another detailed going over tomorrow. Hope it's something simple.

[HPhunter]

Most likely a setting wrong in your controller. They can be confusing. I have a few of these, just too drunk to help right now.
If you have a chance give me a call tomorrow, we can go over the settings. I'm using the same model for my boil kettle.
Jeff

[RubberToe]

I'm using the same PID, and have it wired the same way as you with regard to the PID - SSR - contactor & switch - element.

Have you used a multimeter to determine if the SSR is closing when the PID is telling it to be on?

Also, is your PID set for SSR control output?

Read the PID documentation over and over, you'll get it eventually.

[Barr]

Ahh good advice. I didn't realize there was a SSR setting but I'll look again. The controls are very confusing. I must admit I'm reluctant to put the meter probes in there when it's on. Buzz! I'll go over the instructions again and again. The pump and PID power up alright so I'm thinking the wiring must not be too terribly done.

[Barr]

I was successful in changing the sensor input to RTD.

[Barr]

Ok so I've gone over every setting a few times. I believe its all good setting wise. One issue that may be related is that only my PID button lights up bright as you see in this pic. All three are in on position. The bottom blue button for the pump works just great but seems dim. The red button is for the element (goes to contactor coil) is also dim. I've used a multi meter and I'm getting 240ish volts on the input side of the contactor and nothing on the output side. This is with the SSR light on. Seems to me that the switch isn't causing the coil to close on the contactor.

I'm getting discouraged. Any advice? Any ideas why the buttons aren't all lighting up the same? Is it possible to have wired the contactor backwards? There doesn't seem to be labels on it.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Les

[AllanMar]

Check what you have for voltage to the contractor (coil, contacts on either side. Post some pics of how you have it wired.

Are you sure it's a 120v coil contactor?

[Barr]

I have a 240v 2 pole 40A contactor.

[Barr]

Oh damnit. So it says 240V. That means I need 240V to operate the coil? So in not throwing enough power at it to close.

[AllanMar]

Got a link to the one you bought? You want a 240V 40A, 120V coil contactor if you followed that DWG. If the coil is 240V then youre underpowering it. You could rewire it fairly easy to give it 240V instead if so.

[Barr]

That would be great to rewire it because I don't really want order more parts. Only thing is I'm obviously slow in the wiring department. Is it simple enough to explain? Would you be able to help a brother out here AllanMar?

[AllanMar]

Sure but you need to confirm 100% it's a 240V coil contactor. Pics or link please.

Also, measure the voltage going to the coil, confirm that's wired correct currently.

[Barr]

It's 120V coming to the coil. It says on my receipt that it's a 240V coil but I'd have to remove it from the case to see the sticker. Maybe I should just order another contactor. Oh I don't know.

[AllanMar]

In the DWG you posted above, move the yellow wire coming off the contactor coil (used to go to the other yellow wire at the switch lamp) to "line 2" (red wire on that DWG).

Also confirm that your switch is a 120V indicator?

[RubberToe]

Post pics of the inside of your panel.

Sent from the brew timer.

[RubberToe]

And your contactor can be 240v with 120v control.

Sent from the brew timer.

[Barr]

So wired up that way the switch should still operate the element but the light won't light up right? I'll have to check my switches to be sure it's 120V indicator.

[RubberToe]

If your switch lights are like that theres something wring with your wiring. Maybe current leakage from the outout side of your SSR, and that would be really fucked up. The switch light and load are also seperate circuits.

Sent from the brew timer.

[Barr]

Bingo!!! Problem solved. Water is heating. Yay!! Thanks guys. Lights still aren't lighting up the same intensity but everything else is working well so I'm not going to worry too much. Thanks AllanMar

[AllanMar]

I'd spend some time figuring out what's going on with the lights. I don't recommend leaving electrical issues uninvestigated....

[Barr]

Agreed. I'm just thankful I'm over this hurtle. I've checked and all three switches are 120/240V. The Red (element) button is now on and dim all the time. My wiring was all neat but now is a mess because I been messing with it all evening. Maybe I'll search online to see if anyone else has had issues with these before.

[AllanMar]

Sounds like the lamp may be wired through the contactor. You need to give some more details of how it's actually wired.

EDIT: Actually once you make the wiring change i mentioned that will be exactly what you have. One leg will go through the contactor coil and back to neutral dimly lighting the lamp. You'll have to switch the lamp over to 240V as well.